Description
Champagne Gonet-Médeville, Grand Cru “Louvière”
Think of all that’s happened in your life over the past 12 years and then try to wrap your head around the fact that tonight’s punishingly rare Grand Cru Champagne was quietly resting in Gonet-Médeville’s cellar the entire time, waiting to hit its perfect evolution before disgorgement. That day came on a cold December in 2019, and then, after inserting the corks, another 1.5 years passed before 60 bottles left the cellar and entered our outstretched hands. To be clear, we locked up the entire allotment for America, and now 59 bottles remain because I simply could not pass up the opportunity to taste this.
Not only is it an astonishing single-vineyard Grand Cru located near Krug’s famed “Clos du Mesnil” ($1200+), but I also believe it to be one of the top Blanc de Blancs of the vintage. Furthermore, I don’t know if I’ll ever be able to taste it again—or any vintage for that matter: This 2007 marks Gonet-Médeville’s first release of “Louvière” and they’ve only declared two more since then. Meaning, you won’t yet find it in any Champagne book and a web search will yield virtually nothing. So tonight, you’ll just have to take my word when I say that this wonderfully rare and majestic collector’s item is a siren call for Grand Cru connoisseurs. Treat it with respect after opening, and it will provide profound levels of meditative pleasure. No more than three bottles per person.
Xavier and Julie Gonet-Médeville are a power couple in the world of French wine: They are owners of today’s boutique Champagne estate; the inimitable Château Gilette in Sauternes (each vintage is held at least 15 years before release); and the well-situated Château des Eyrins in Margaux, among others. Both worked under the direction of Julie’s parents for eight years until venturing out on their own, but it was Xavier’s side of the family who had stakes in Champagne. When his family’s parcels were being divided up at the turn of the century, he opted for quality over quantity. As a result, you’ll only find Premier Cru and Grand Cru vines at Gonet-Médeville—aside from Krug, they are the only other estate that has holdings in Grand Crus Ambonnay and Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger! With ownership in what seems like every shade and style of wine (sparkling, white, red, sweet), and families with extensive chronicles in Champagne and Bordeaux, they’ve quickly created a name for themselves. Their focus on small-production, conscientiously crafted wines are among the best of any “newcomer.”
Gonet-Médeville makes two Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs from Le Mesnil sur Oger: “Champ d’Alouette” and tonight’s “Louvière.” I’ve been fortunate enough to taste both and they are extremely distinct cuvées. Whereas Alouette emphasizes vinosity, power, breadth, Louvière flaunts poise, clarity, and superb tension. The “Louvière” vineyard lies at the top of Grand Cru Le Mesnil sur Oger, and is steeper and colder than most so Xavier has only chosen hotter vintages to create this cuvée. He farms their few rows of vines with organic principles and the hand-harvested Chardonnay is shuttled over to their winery in nearby Bisseuil. The grapes for today’s 2007 fermented and aged for approximately six months in neutral French barrels and the resulting wine was transferred into bottle the following Spring. From here, it began a 141-month journey of undisturbed lees aging. It was disgorged in December of 2019 and given a dosage of two grams. This 60-bottle parcel then rested in their cellar until the Spring of 2021.
Why does Xavier subject his wines to such a lengthy aging regimen? Because he tasted Champagnes from ’29, ’45, ’55, ’59, ’61, ’64 and decided “I want to make wines like that…you need have no fear of cellaring these wines to see how they evolve, however delicious they are now.” And evolved this one has! At 14 years old, this has entered an absolute perfect drinking window. Now, you can go about your routine of pouring into wide-mouthed tulips around 50 degrees, but I found it delivering brilliant levels of finesse and crystalline tension after pouring into all-purpose stems and allowing some of the bubbles to dissipate. As oxygen started going to work, the wine began rolling out lifted aromas of yellow apple skin, Meyer lemon, Asian pear, white rock, crushed shells, almond, grilled peach, and subtle oak. The palate is precise and tense, with alluringly rich, savory, and sublime textures that end with a harmonious melding of pulverized chalk, herbs, and spice. Each sip contains so much intelligence and contemplative textures that sit with you for 30+ seconds, so please drink your bottle as slowly as possible! There’s still so much life left here too: I expect this to coast past its 20th birthday in savory style. Cheers!
