Description
Champagne Marc Hébrart “Mes Favorites” 1er Cru
When Champagne luminary Peter Liem recently called “Marc Hébrart “one of the finest estates in the Grande Vallée,” that meant he was putting them up against megastars Billecart-Salmon, Philipponnat, Dom Pérignon, Georges Laval, Bollinger—essentially, names that grace every Michelin-star wine list. Not only do I agree with Peter Liem, I’m also prepared to go a step further by placing Marc Hébrart among the finest estates in all of Champagne. Over the last decade, they’ve been downright fascinating to watch as they’ve released multiple bottles that hold a spot in my all-time favorites list.
Their twice-ever-released “Noces de Craie,” their rarefied Special Club, their impeccably balanced “Rive Gauche/Rive Droite”—all of them are powerful, stunningly pure examples of Champagne’s very best. And today, there’s a new bottling to add to that extraordinary mix. “Mes Favorites” is a personal blend of old-vine parcels within the famed 1er Cru of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ that owner Jean-Paul Hébrart holds closest to his heart. Predominately Pinot Noir with a touch of Chardonnay, this masterful concoction of prized, should-be-Grand-Cru fruit comes from the 2012-2014 vintages and has now seen substantial aging in bottle. It is a complete masterclass on chalk-driven soils, expert winemaking, and the payoff that comes with extended maturation. It is, by a sizeable margin, their greatest value Champagne. Take up to six bottles, and enjoy.
Now with 15 hectares of Premier and Grand Cru vines within the Grande Vallée (the easternmost section of Vallée de la Marne), the Hébrarts have won over the hearts of critics and consumers. After launching their inaugural estate bottling in 1964, Marc led the charge for several decades—and earned his way into the esteemed Club Trésors de Champagne—but the family’s recent surge to stardom can be attributed to his son, Jean-Paul. He took over operations in the late ‘90 and really focused on extreme attention to detail, organic practices, and honest, soil-driven expressions of Champagne. Note: There are only 28 members in Club Trésors de Champagne, all of which are able to produce an exclusive “Special Club,” a Champagne that (1) can only be produced in outstanding years, (2) has a specially designed bottle, and (3) must pass two blind tastings. Marc Hébrart’s version is always extraordinary.
“Mes Favorites” comes from a handful of sustainably farmed old-vine parcels (no younger than 50 years of age!) all within Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, a Premier Cru village that ranks at the top of the 40-something that exist. Accordingly, many have likened it to an under-the-radar Grand Cru, a notion I am fully on board with. The majority of today’s wine is from the 2014 vintage (60%) with the remainder coming from their 2012 and 2013 reserve wine stocks. After alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in stainless steel, the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay were blended together and transferred into bottle in early 2015. From here, it aged in Hébrart’s cellar for several years. Our bottle was disgorged in December 2018, but they release every batch in waves, so the disgorgement date you see on the back label could range from mid-2018 to mid-2019.
After a frothy and energetic mousse dissipates in the glass, you’re left with a brilliant straw-yellow core with star-bright silver reflections. I could smell this wine all night long: High-toned aromas of fresh white flowers and honeysuckle explode out of the glass hand in hand with creamed yellow apple, juicy white peach, white pear, lemon curd, brioche, citrus peel, sugar-coated grapefruit, finely crushed chalk, oyster shell, and a touch of ginger. The palate is layered with surges of creamy stone and orchard fruits, mouthwatering citrus, and the inimitable charm of Champagne: crushed chalk minerality. It is a brilliant wine, one that delivers a lush profile that constantly hums with tension that builds into a lengthy 30+ second finish. I found this really started hitting its stride after the wine had settled in the glass for 15-30 minutes. If you feel so inclined to take it a step further, pour it into Burgundy stems and give it a few vigorous swirls to remove extra carbonation—this will enhance the sublime texture and suppleness of “Mes Favorites.” Overall, it’s such an addicting bottle of Champagne, and I am certain you all will agree that it’s competing for the best non-vintage bottling of the year. Enjoy!
