Description
Champagne Vilmart & Cie, “Emotion” Brut Rosé
Assuming you were quick on the draw back in June, you’ve now had the opportunity to taste Vilmart’s 2012 “Coeur du Cuvée,” what I considered to be one of their finest-ever bottlings. I may need to issue a retraction because that was before I knew they were going to unveil a rosé from the same legendary vintage. And now, as I type this with a glass of “Emotion” beside me, I’m once again struggling to recall a Vilmart that moved me as much as this. Tonight’s smoking 2012 marks the first vintage of “Emotion” and it’s already shaking the robust and vast pantheon of luxury rosé champagne.
There isn’t enough time in the evening to enumerate all of them but two recent favorites that immediately come to mind are Billecart’s 2008 “Elisabeth Salmon” and Gonet-Médeville’s 2009 “Théophile.” For me, Vilmart’s mind-bending and deeply spirited 2012 “Emotion” is right in the mix. It’s a rip-roaring rosé de saignée crafted from Premier Cru Pinot Noir/Chardonnay that matured for nearly a year in barrel before spending the last eight in bottle. From every angle, it’s a masterful wine that verifies Vilmart’s status as one of Champagne’s most sought-after and fervently praised producers. In need of an apéritif bottle? This is not it! “Emotion” is immensely vinous and powerful, and to quote Antonio Galloni, “it will offer its finest drinking at the dinner table.” Up to four bottles per person.
Founded in 1890 and still managed by the same family, Vilmart is a rare heritage brand with an impeccable lineup of wines characterized by spectacular energy, mind-bending poise, and powerful vinosity. They are, quite simply, High-IQ, Burgundy-esque champagnes with a singular voice. The 131-year-old Vilmart estate is based in Rilly-la-Montagne, a Premier Cru-classified village in the Montagne de Reims sub-zone of Champagne. As many of you know, the Montagne de Reims is dominated by Pinot Noir plantings, but Vilmart’s 11 hectares of vineyards actually contain more Chardonnay (about 60%) than ‘black’ grapes. Since 1989, the property has been in the hands of the dynamic Laurent Champs, a fifth-generation proprietor and careful steward of his treasured holdings. Although not ‘certified’ organic, Champs is a member of an organization called Ampelos, which promotes organic viticulture. Since taking over, not a drop of chemical fertilizers or herbicides has touched his vineyards.
“Emotion” is a new cuvée: Coming entirely from the spectacular 2012 vintage, this is a 60/40 blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from 60-year-old vines in the Premier Cru village of Rilly-la-Montagne. In the cellar, grapes were pressed separately into 228-liter Burgundy barrels where an élevage (without malo) occurred over a 10-month period. A rarity in the region, long barrel aging is one of the identifying characteristics of Vilmart’s Champagnes—this lends the finished wines an added dimension that invites comparisons to Krug. Today’s 2012 was transferred into bottle in late 2013 and aged on its fine lees until March of 2018. Vilmart then disgorged the wine, added an eight-gram dosage, and allowed it to rest further before release.
Now approaching its fourth year of bottle age post-disgorgement, and 10 years of overall evolution, Vilmart’s 2012 “Emotion” Brut Rosé has officially entered a sweet spot. It spilled into my Burgundy stem with a refined mousse and dazzling soft orange and pale salmon hues. After a few gentle swirls, sublime aromas of green strawberry, dried raspberry, fleshy peach, pomelo, tangy raspberry, and Rainier cherry rolled out, followed lockstep by crushed stone, sous bois, almond skin, baking spice, and damp herbs. This is a fantastic, full-bodied, deeply textured champagne with a vinous and expansive palate that delivers bracing acidity to each powerful layer. The multi-dimensional, and constantly evolving experience this rosé brings ensures you’ll never tire of pulling the cork, be it now or on its 20th birthday. That said, it should be enjoyed sparingly because there isn’t much to go around.
