Description
Chapuis & Chapuis, Red Burgundy Two-Pack
The irony behind the wines we love offering is that there is never enough to go around, and that’s especially the case for any cuvée under the Chapuis & Chapuis label. Over the past decade, these two brothers have handcrafted the smallest of productions from organic parcels throughout Burgundy, and they now enjoy a much-deserved rabid following. A substantial allocation is extraordinarily hard to come by as is, but we decided to add fuel to the fire by sourcing a highly unique two-pack.
It took some time and raised our blood pressure, but we finally hunted down two back-vintage gems that brilliantly showcase their red Burgundy talent: One is a Pinot Noir from the buzzed-about, high-altitude appellation of Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, the other is a Gamay from the southern reaches of Burgundy—and both are organic, naturally raised beauties from the classic 2017 vintage. The magnitude of perfume, the interchange of elegance and concentration, the savory minute-long finish of each wine…it’s all there in staggering detail. Even if you miss out on today’s limited two-pack, do yourself a favor and commit Chapuis & Chapuis to memory—they’re among Burgundy’s greatest new talents!
I find that the best discoveries are made by asking winemakers, merchants, and sommeliers what’s in their glasses, and that’s exactly how we discovered the Chapuis brothers back in 2017. Much of that exciting buzz came from the friend I was traveling with, who introduced me to the jovial Romain Chapuis during an epic dinner in Beaune.
The Chapuis brothers, Romain and Jean-Guillaume, were raised in the vineyards of Aloxe-Corton, and unsurprisingly, Romain fell in love with the wine and began touring the world to improve his craft. He’s enjoyed the luxury of learning under natural wine superstar Philippe Pacalet—who himself was educated by two of Beaujolais’ most revered producers, Marcel Lapierre and Jules Chauvet, the veritable father of France’s natural wine movement. Upon Romain’s return to Burgundy, he reunited with his brother and they decided to launch their own label. Starting a winery in Burgundy, however, is neither cheap nor easy: land is some of the most expensive in the world and regulations are strict.
So, after founding Chapuis Frères in Pommard in 2009 (where their cellar once housed the kitchen of a 13th-century castle), the brothers had just enough capital remaining for 0.8 hectares of vines. Needing to supplement their own production with enough fruit to create a viable enterprise, they scoured the region for top sources, as evidenced by the raw material in both of today’s wines.
2017 Coteaux Bourguignons
This relatively new AOC covers the span of Burgundy and is essentially a catch-all appellation that allows blending and access to any grape variety that’s planted. It essentially grants the winemaker freedom to do as he pleases. For this wine, Chapuis & Chapuis sourced organic grapes from the sandy granite soils of Beaujolais’ Juliénas Cru, and an ambient, whole-cluster fermentation occurred before maturation in old French barrels. No fining, no filtering, no added sulfur. At 14% ABV, this provides a lush Gamay experience that explodes with lively red and black berries, grape stem, candied rose petal, and forest floor. The palate is full and juicy with a bit of prickle that blows off after a 15-minute decant. This should be enjoyed now and over the next 1-2 years in Burgundy stems around 55-60 degrees.
2017 Hautes-Côtes de Beaune
Lurking among the hautes-côtes, or “upper slopes,” of Burgundy are some of the most spectacular Pinot Noir values in the region. The vines cling to slopes 100-200 meters higher than those grown in the renowned villages below (e.g. Beaune, Puligny, Chassagne, Meursault), and the cooler micro-climate generally results in a longer hangtime. Although not much information can be found about the raw material in Chapuis’ micro-cuvée, we believe it comes from an organically farmed, young-vine parcel in Savigny-lès-Beaune. It spontaneously fermented and matured in older French barrels briefly before bottling without fining or filtration. Little-to-no sulfur was added throughout the entire winemaking process. This 2017 pours a vibrant ruby-purple and requires a 45-minute decant before revealing pure aromas of sappy black cherry, damp moss, crushed stone, blood orange peel, raspberry skin, red plum, violet, and pomegranate oil. At 12% ABV, this shows incredible lift and verve, and is guaranteed to deliver a dynamic Pinot Noir experience over the next 3-5 years. Cheers!
