Description
Château de Mattes-Sabran, Corbières “Le Viala”
Do you like Châteuneuf-du-Pape? How about Cornas? If yes, what would you say to a Mediterranean French red that tasted like a magical combination of the two for just $20? I know what we said: Bring it on! Today’s Corbières from Château de Mattes-Sabran rocked our world in a way few southern French reds have lately; a lot of the reds from this part of the world are playing checkers, but this one is a chess Grandmaster.
Grown in scrubby, sun-soaked hillside vineyards strewn with the same kind of galets roulés (large granite stones) found in Châteauneuf, the old-vine Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre in “Le Viala” work together in perfect harmony, taking you straight to France’s south coast without any excess baggage. Like our favorite wines from the southern (and northern) Rhône, this tastes not just of fruit but of the dusty, rocky slopes that fruit is grown in, with the freshness that comes from a site with a little bit of altitude. With Winter approaching and a whole new set of wines about to take their place on center stage, I’m pushing this one out front for a star turn. You couldn’t ask for a more impressive, high-impact ‘house wine,’ made all the more impressive by the 1,000 years of history behind it!
Indeed, it is no exaggeration to say that the tradition of winemaking is an ancient one at Mattes-Sabran. Located where it is, along the Mediterranean coast, the estate covers ground that has been under vine for thousands of years. The nearby town of Narbonne was a major Roman port, shipping out the locally produced wine to far-flung corners of the empire. There is still an ancient Roman highway, the “Via Domitia,” that runs through the Mattes-Sabran property, its stones still cutting a path through their vineyards. Following the patterns of European history, the property was part of an abbey for much of the Middle Ages and became family-owned around the 1600s. The property has been passed between family members since 1733.
Though the property is close to the sea, within 10 miles of the Mediterranean, the vineyards rise up to steep terraced hills where much of Mattes-Sabran’s best grapes are grown. These vineyards contain poor soils of gravel and large granite galets roulés like those found in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, all lying over limestone bedrock. The assortment of grape varieties also matches those of the famous Rhone appellation, with the bulk of the vines being Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. The entire estate is sustainably farmed and harvests are carried out by hand. Grapes are fermented using indigenous yeasts in stainless steel and the wine is aged in tank to preserve freshness.
With 2019 being a hot and dry year, the fruit is concentrated and dense. The blend of this vintage is 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, and 20% Syrah. While the color is deep, with magenta/purple core that goes almost to the rim, the fruit still contains a charming brambly freshness. Indeed the growing conditions seem to have served Mattes-Sabran well because the robust fruit aromas just about pour out of the glass upon serving. There are lots of wild mixes of dark fruits, blackberry, black plum, cassis, while also spiced and herbal elements of licorice, Asian five-spice, sage, and rosemary. While a flash decant would open this wine up quicker, it is ready to drink straight from the bottle, ideally served between 55-60 degrees. I recommend Bordeaux stems if readily available but this wine plays to all crowds, even in all-purpose glasses. Ideally, I would pair this with lamb chops or a cassoulet, but honestly, it would just as easily pair alongside a juicy, medium-rare burger. Cheers!
