Description
Château du Carillon, Fronsac
Which of the following provides more pleasure: the “modern,” super-polished Napa Merlots and Pomerols of the world or the savory perfume and classic structure of an affordable, old-school Bordeaux? This would likely trigger an endless debate in a room full of impassioned wine professionals. There’s no wrong answer, of course, but if the latter causes you to perk up, welcome to your newest fixation. At just $25, today’s 2008 Fronsac—imported by us exclusively, directly, and prudently from Château du Carillon—will prove to be the year’s enduring mature Bordeaux value.
There’s so much greatness to unpack here. This obscure micro-estate is located in Fronsac, a Right Bank terroir known as “the historical cradle of great Bordeaux.” With 60-million-year-old soils and wine-growing dating back to the Ancient Romans, this just may be the most criminally underrepresented appellation in all of France. And that’s before telling you what lies less than three miles away: Pomerol, home of the world’s most expensive Merlot. Clearly, today’s 2008, which I must again stress is an exclusive $25 deal, does far more than over-deliver on value: It is authentically and inimitably “Bordelais” in character, a true wine of terroir that so brilliant conveys the savory evolution of Merlot. These perfectly stored bottles are in the midst of a beautiful drinking window, one I anticipate staying wide open until 2028. Cheers!
Several years ago, when Jancis Robinson re-tasted an assortment of Bordeaux reds from 2008, she titled her article “Bordeaux 2008—the last affordable vintage revisited.” This was arguably a “classic” vintage with moderate alcohol levels and a more restrained elegance that kept the wines from getting the kinds of scores that inflate prices. Then, right behind it, came two vastly more-hyped vintages (’09, ’10), and the dye was cast: It was up to savvy buyers like Robinson to remind us not to sleep on the ’08s. I assure you, we’re wide awake!
Château du Carillon is quite small by Bordeaux standards, with just seven hectares of vineyards in the commune of Saillans, near the Isle River. The estate, like many in Bordeaux, is part of a larger “portfolio” of properties owned by a family firm called the Taillan Group. Today, the group owns and manages a generous handful of properties across Bordeaux which also includes Second Growth Gruaud-Larose!
As in so many of Bordeaux’s lesser-known regions, Fronsac has been a hotbed of investment and renewal, and the ideal place to look for affordable alternatives to Pomerol/Saint-Émilion. Again, the Fronsac AOC may be one of the most underrated terroirs in all of Bordeaux. Located just west of Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, in beautiful rolling hills north of the Dordogne River, Fronsac sits at a slightly higher elevation and even contains more limestone in its soil than Saint-Émilion’s famed plateau. Additionally, you’ll find a rich clay blend that’s referred to as the “molasses of Fronsadais,” making this an exceptional terroir for Merlot.
With just 7.5 hectares of planted vines, Château du Carillon is tiny by Bordeaux standards. The average age of their vineyards, which are now organically farmed, is 30 years old. This 2008 release is effectively a “varietal” Merlot with a small amount (5%) of Cabernet Sauvignon incorporated into the blend. The wine fermented in stainless steel before 12 months of maturation in new and used French barrels.
Considering this wine’s age, I wasn’t expecting something this robust and youthful—but was very glad to get it! Composed of 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, this classic, ultra-savory Bordeaux rolls out plummy, aromatic berry fruit alongside a wonderful stony clay mineral backbone. The color is still deep and youthful, though there are hints of brick orange at the rim. Aromas/flavors of dried black cherry, cranberry, and red plum are intertwined with notes of vintage leather, tobacco, and black pepper, wrapped in soft tannins. Slowly pour this, without decanting, into Bordeaux stems and enjoy over the course of three hours, preferably alongside a classic preparation like steak au poivre or tenderloin topped with Périgueux sauce. I’d say try the latter: You can use the money you saved on the wine to buy the black truffles! Enjoy!
