Description
Château Laniote, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé
The special terroir of Saint-Émilion is a rarity in the iconic, and world leading wine region of Bordeaux. In this picturesque little village, a high plateau slopes down towards the river with soils of iron-rich clay over chalky, limestone rock. Distinct from the dominant gravels, this soil is a recipe for wines of impeccable balance, both powerful and elegant. It’s why they’re often SommSelect favorites, and perhaps no family is more familiar with this unique soil heritage than the owners of Château Laniote, who have been handing down their family winemaking traditions for over 200 years now. They even own the small chapel where the town’s namesake, Émilion, lived and worked prior to his eventual sainthood. To say they are rooted to the land is a huge understatement! Their 2016 was a monumental performance, and it is just now entering its prime drinking window. If you want to own, and truly enjoy, a few bottles of delicious liquid history than act fast, we don’t have much!
Bordeaux produces a lot of wine. A region that could easily fit inside of Sonoma County has over 300,000 acres of vineyards (Sonoma has 62,000) and in some years makes over half the amount of wine that the entire state of California does. But most of that is industrial-scale production, basic Bordeaux. A small percentage hail from the top Châteaux, and a smaller percentage of those are designated “Grand Cru Classé.” The vast majority of these iconic Châteaux are now owned by luxury brands, large family conglomerates, and even a few hedge funds. Those few that are still in the hands of the original families are vanishingly rare, but that is exactly what helps set Château Laniote apart. Since Pierre Lacoste purchased a few vineyards and a cellar back in 1816, this property has been handed down through the family for eight generations, with very little changing other than the surname by marriage.
Pierre made some additions, building up the château and adding a few hectares, but essentially the estate looks much as it did in the mid 19th Century. Current proprietor, Arnaud De La Filolie, is a proud steward of the long standing traditions here and is in the process of transitioning the care to his children, the ninth generation. The family and their team farm the five hectares–a tiny estate, in Bordeaux terms—by hand, in much the same way their ancestors have for centuries. The cellar work is equally traditional, with fermentation in mostly very large, concrete vats that have been in use for decades, and then racking into traditional barriques, about 45% new, for about 18 months of elevage before bottling.
This is Saint-Émilion, so Merlot is the star and it makes up about 80% of the plantings. But that does leave for a decent percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, adding structure and spice. All three varieties did very well in 2016: A cool, wet spring and early summer was a cause for concern, but a very warm and dry July and August continued into the early fall and in the end it was a phenomenal vintage, with sumptuous fruit over a powerful, complex frame. At eight years out this beauty is ready to shine with a good decant, then serve at about 60 degrees in a large Bordeaux stem. Classic aromas of blackberries, black cherries, and wild blueberries mingle with savory notes of cedar, cigar box, cocoa powder, mint, dried flowers, graphite, and meaty minerality. At this age the rich fruit and powerful structure take center stage, but there are already hints of complex earth and sovor underneath, and a very long, mineral-laden finish. That said I would heartily recommend putting a case aside to enjoy over the next 15-plus years. Enjoy with rich stews like navarin d’agneau, roasts, and grilled meats and vegetables. Lovers of the best in traditional Bordeaux, do not miss this opportunity!
