Description
Château Magence, Graves Rouge
When you have young children, someone is always there to wistfully remark on what a “great age” your kids are at—as in, “Oh, that’s a great age.” Except, as parents know, it’s not always true (two, for example, is not a great age, and some of the teens aren’t so hot either). Which brings me to today’s delicious 2011 Graves from Château Magence: It’s at a great age. For real. I’ll admit to some personal bias here, but right around the decade mark is the Bordeaux sweet spot for me, especially for Bordeaux wines in this exceptionally modest price tier.
If I could afford the Château Latours of the world, I might wait a little longer to pull the cork, but then again, maybe I wouldn’t; part of the appeal of Bordeaux is its saturated fruit and considerable power, and I want to experience that just as much as I crave the leather, mushroom, etc. notes that come with time. Of all the direct-import Bordeaux we’ve featured of late, I can’t remember another that felt so perfectly in its sweet spot than this one from Château Magence. It’s got amazing depth, lots of dark-hued Cabernet Sauvignon character, and a healthy dollop of tobacco, earth, and spice. It’s spot-on, and just $34 at that. Sure, it’ll age longer but that’s not why we offer these wines—instant gratification is where it’s at!
I’d also claim some personal bias in favor of Graves, which, in addition to being one of the most versatile terroirs in Bordeaux (white, sweet, and red wines are all great), is the only one named for its predominant soil type (gravel, as deposited over millennia by the Garonne River). Of course, it’s somewhat foolish to ascribe a “gravelly” quality to red wines from the region, but darn it, I do so anyway: It’s not an exaggeration to say that Graves reds are among the earthier, spicier styles of Bordeaux’s Left Bank.
Château Magence is, like many of the Bordeaux wines we import directly, still a family-scale operation, with 39 hectares of vineyards in one contiguous parcel that surrounds the 17th-century houses and winery. Nine of those vineyard hectares are devoted to Sémillon and Sauvignon for white wines, the rest to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc for the reds. According to current proprietor Jean d’Antras, the typical breakdown for their red grand vin is 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, and 18% Cabernet Franc, aged 18 months in a mixture of new and used French oak barriques.
Now with more than a decade of age, this wine proves two things: (1) that 2011 wasn’t a bad vintage for everyone, and (2) that 10+ years old is indeed a great age. In the glass, it displays a deep, almost opaque garnet hue with aromas that perfectly toe the fruit/earth line: cassis, black plum, huckleberry, violet, green tobacco, graphite, leather, mushroom stock, and warm spice. It has a substantial, even weighty, feel on the palate, with well-integrated tannins and excellent freshness preventing any syrupy sensations. Decant it just before serving (watching for sediment) and serve at 60-65 degrees in Bordeaux stems; its savory qualities will be nicely complemented by a well-charred slab of beef or lamb, or, if you want to go meat-free, a wild mushroom cassoulet. We’re talking good, old-fashioned, stick-to-your-ribs Bordeaux here. Get some!
