Description
Château Simone, Palette Rosé
Owned by the Rougier family since 1830, Château Simone clings to a single hillside in Montaiguet, a small hamlet just east of Aix-en-Provence, 20 miles north of Marseille. The appellation that encompasses this village is Palette AOC, and even as a small independent producer, Simone produces a majority of the wine labeled within the designation. To the naked eye, they appear to be a classic family-run estate, but it’s impossible to begin discussing the property without immediately diving into the myriad qualities that make this one of the most distinctive estates in France.
The first and perhaps most shocking feature of the Rougier family’s vines is that they are north-facing. Yes, you read that correctly—Simone’s vines cling to a 750-foot limestone face that is angled away from the sun. This is unusual, but it allows the vines to retain their freshness, despite the region’s fierce heat. It is one of the very few north-facing vineyards (in the northern hemisphere) I’ve ever seen that produces world-class wine. Next, there is a mind-boggling diversity of grape varieties among these ancient vines. Château Simone’s red and rosé contain Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Syrah, Manosquin, Castet, Carignan, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Muscat Noir. Finally, the character of Château Simone’s wines is perhaps what is most unique and fascinating for sommeliers. Despite the punishingly hot and long growing season, the preternaturally old vines, and mixed bag of varieties, Château Simone does not produce heavy, syrupy wines. On the contrary, the Rougiers are renowned for bottling wines that are defined by their power, elegance, balance, and detail.
For Simone’s rosé, grapes are harvested by hand, de-stemmed, and gently pressed—50% is free-run juice—before a spontaneous fermentation in concrete eggs and oak foudres. Malolactic is naturally blocked due to the chill of their cellar. Aging occurs in the same vessels for a year before an unfined/unfiltered bottling. Here are the unedited notes from when I tasted a bottle (which was paid for since samples of this rare rosé are not allowed):
Vibrant ruddy hue. Full-bodied, lush, powerful. Crushed cherry, wild strawberries, ripe red plum. Rich textures fill out the mouth quickly but freshness keeps all of it humming. Even more enjoyable on day two, and a decant is certainly not out of the question. This stunner is loaded with depth and concentration that remove it far beyond the realm of rosé (it’s priced in line with their rouge for a reason). Among the most age-worthy, complex, and delicious bottles in its category. Phenomenal!
