Description
Château Sociando-Mallet, “Cuvée Jean Gautreau”
So here we are with the bonus offer: It’s the same over-achieving château, the same prestige micro-cuvée, and the same perfect provenance. The only difference is the vintage, and it’s one of impeccable balance that I hold extremely close to my heart. Put this 1996 next to any top Pauillac, Saint-Estèphe, or Margaux of the same vintage, and it’s guaranteed to cause chaos. If you already read the full story this morning, I suggest sprinting to the cart because we have less than 60 bottles to share. For everyone else, read quickly!
For many, Château Sociando-Mallet is a sleeping giant of Bordeaux that should be treated with the same deference as any classified estate of 1855—and it’s all because of one man. The late, immensely great Jean Gautreau spent a half-century crafting hauntingly perfumed, terroir-infused Bordeaux that have surely tricked blind tasters into calling it a luxury label a thousand times over. Few palates, however, have had the great fortune of tasting today’s specific bottling. This 1996 is Sociando-Mallet’s painfully rare, top-secret cuvée—a microscopic barrel selection that was never meant to leave the property. And for nearly 20 years, it didn’t. It wasn’t until 2013 when Jean Gautreau decided to give the public a sneak preview, only because he was running out of space in his cellar! A few months ago, the family released another small wave, and some cases found their way into our hands. Thank goodness I didn’t taste this blind because a “Super Second” château—perhaps even a First Growth—would’ve all been possible answers. It truly is that classy, nuanced, and profound.
NOTE: As if the above wasn’t already enough of a bonus, we also received two cases of Sociando-Mallet’s 2003 release. You can acquire 1-2 bottles here.
One of the absolute truths in Robert Parker’s lifetime was that Sociando was among the greatest over-achievers of Bordeaux. He was a disciple through and through, unafraid comparing it to First Growths, or making blanket statements like: “Regardless of vintage conditions, Jean Gautreau does everything right.” So why was this great property, which is perfectly situated in gravelly clay just a mile north of Saint-Estèphe, not included in the famous 1855 classification? Because, despite documents tracing this property back to the 1600s, it didn’t explode into prominence until the latter quarter of the 20th century. This is when an ambitious, 42-year-old Jean Gautreau purchased the decrepit five-hectare estate.
In the following decades, he became known for crafting incredible Bordeaux with classy aromas, robust textures, and superb cellar appeal. And then, starting in 1995, a special namesake cuvée—initially meant for private consumption—was created on his behalf. Here’s an explanation of this Cabernet-based red directly from the estate:
“The cellarmaster of Sociando-Mallet had the idea of selecting fifteen barrels from among sixty to make a blend called ‘Jean Gautreau.’ The choice of barrels occurred during a blind tasting after one year of aging. The cellarmaster, the oenologist, Sylvie Gautreau, and Jean Gautreau evaluated wine from each barrel. The fifteen highest-scoring barrels are blended and put into special bottles. The eponymous wine has a higher proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon than Sociando-Mallet. While somewhat austere in its youth, it reaches its full potential with extended aging in the bottle.”
I don’t always like to choose favorites, especially in the presence of two extraordinary bottlings like the 1995 and 2003, but this 1996 “Cuvée Jean Gautreau” is something I could savor, flaunt, and cellar for the rest of my days. This was a perfectly balanced vintage that yielded classic Bordeaux savor, but Sociando-Mallet’s impressive oak regimen lent it yet another dimension—one that is gorgeously silky and high-toned. I suggest standing it upright for several weeks before extracting the cork and then allowing the wine to rest in your Bordeaux stem for a minute before dipping your nose in and exploring the aromatic mosaic of dark berry fruit, dried herbs, tobacco leaf, damp violets, exotic spices, wet gravel, and finely crushed earth. The palate is supple, softly structured, and in perfect harmony—a paragon of exquisite Left Bank Bordeaux at its peak maturity. This is one of those wines that reminds me why I love the business! Enjoy now and over the next 10-15 years.
