Description
Château Suduiraut, Sauternes Premier Cru Classé
Fact: We’ll never turn away the opportunity to offer mature Château d’Yquem with perfect provenance because it enjoys a historic reputation as one of the world’s most significant and idolized labels. That said, we fully understand only a few have the desire or ability to drop $500 on a luxury bottle of Sauternes. Lop off a zero, however, and a legion of oenophiles will start perking up. Enter today’s epic $49 wine: This is Château Suduiraut, a rarefied Premier Cru Classé estate rubbing elbows with Yquem in terms of its 16th-century origins, legendary terroir (they are neighbors), and critical acclaim for the 2005 release.
In fact, James Suckling thinks this might be the best Sauternes of the vintage…and what a vintage it was! The 2005 growing season was exceptional all around with Decanter believing that it “may well become one of Sauternes’ most classic.” Even Suduiraut themselves ranked it in their top five of the last 100 years. Yes, there’s quite a lot to unpack and process here, but ultimately, this half-bottle (a perfect size in my opinion) provides one of wine’s most hedonistic experiences. If you want to pique your senses with intoxicating perfume, magnificent exoticism, and a minutes-long finish, the liquid-gold concentration of Suduiraut’s ’05 will exceed all expectations for decades to come.
NOTE: This special direct import is currently docking in Oakland and is due to arrive at our warehouse in mid-to-late April.
Most wine lovers are at least vaguely familiar with Sauternes, and how it is produced, even if they rarely drink the stuff: Located within the Graves region of Bordeaux, Sauternes is the most famous of a string of appellations devoted to sweet white wines from Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. The grapes (which occasionally include Muscadelle as well) are left to hang extra-long on the vine—into the cooler, wetter fall months—until they wither and become affected by a fungus called botrytis, referred to as “noble rot” in the states. In the right conditions, botrytis doesn’t simply rot and destroy the cluster but rather concentrates its sugars by allowing the dehydration of each grape. The unctuous juice of these late-harvested grapes doesn’t ferment to dryness in the winery, and yet the best examples of Sauternes also maintain incredibly refreshing acidity levels. They’re the ultimate “meditation” wines, meant to be sipped and savored slowly and capable of decades of aging thanks to the preservative effects of the residual sugar.
Chateau Suduirault’s roots in Bordeaux go back to the 16th century, and it is regularly placed in the top rank of Sauternes alongside the likes of Yquem and Rieussec, so it’s a little shocking to us that a half-bottle from a blockbuster vintage is selling for this little. Comprised of 97% Sémillon and 3% Sauvignon Blanc, the wine was harvested over the course of six weeks in the fall of 2005, with four total vineyard passes or “tries.” After fermentation in stainless steel, the resulting wine—loaded 163 grams of residual sugar—aged in 65% new and 35% once-used French barriques. Now with nearly 15 years of bottle age under its belt, this golden nectar is just starting to hit its stride with savory nuances beginning to shine through the extremely opulent and honeyed core of fruit.
And, despite usually being listed as a “dessert” wine, great Sauternes should never be resigned to that category—unless the wine itself is the dessert! For us, the best pairing for Sauternes is funky, salty, cheeses (Roquefort, Taleggio, Stilton) which Sauternes wraps in its sweet, viscous embrace. But there are many other “savory” applications for this wine that might come earlier in a meal: A lobe of seared foie gras drizzled with a citrusy sauce would be the ultimate showcase for Sauternes’ many facets. In terms of service, my suggestion is to pull the cork on a bottle 30 minutes before pouring a couple of ounces into elegant, all-purpose stems. Not only will the wine get better and better as the meal progresses, but it’ll also keep for weeks in the refrigerator after opening, thanks again to its residual sugar. So let’s get some on the table, shall we? Enjoy!
