Description
Conti, “Origini” Rosso
Origins matter. And today, we’re revealing a jaw-dropping wine from Conti that readily identifies as the ancient soul of Alto Piemonte—although one would never know it without the associated insider information. A “first” for SommSelect, this extremely limited take on old-school Alto Piemonte is an evocative red blend of Croatina, Nebbiolo, Vespolina, Uva Rara, Dolcetto, and an unidentified number of other local varieties. In other words, you’ve never had anything like this before, and it won’t be something you soon forget.
Yes, a bottle of Boca Nebbiolo vinified at Conti remains some of the most expressive, infinitely intriguing, and beloved wine in this corner of Italy, but nobody should dare classify today’s fascinating elixir as the lesser of the two. One could even argue that today’s label is more authentic and historically important! Modeled after the wines of many generations past, “Origini” comes from a field blend of super-old vines (which are also located in the impossibly small Boca DOC) trained in the goblet-shaped Maggiorina method. All of the above-listed grapes are co-harvested and co-fermented together, naturally, and bottled unfined to create a divinely pure and profound red without the “Boca” price. I cannot express just how unique and valuable this drinking experience is. Please, make sure this gets checked off your list!
The village of Boca is home base for the Conti sisters, and after enduring a plummet in vine plantings in the 20th century—from 4,000 hectares all the way down to 10 in the 1990s—it exists as one of the smallest wine appellations in Italy! However, you won’t find the rarefied Boca DOC on today’s front labels because the Conti sisters, Elena and Paola, chose to illustrate this organic beauty through a staunchly traditional lens by utilizing an unspecified field blend of 80-year-old vines trained in the old-fashioned Maggiorina method. That, along with a shorter aging regimen disqualifies them from using the Boca DOC designation on labels.
The Conti sisters understand that with this inimitable terroir, years of experience perfecting organic and biodynamic practices, and a treasure trove of ancient vines, they need not fuss over the wines too much in the cellar. There is very little in the way of technology or modern gadgetry in this property’s modest cellar. This bottling is composed largely of Croatina and Nebbiolo with a mixed bag of other indigenous grapes (the exact percentages are currently impossible to calculate) that ferment together on indigenous yeasts. No oak is used during maturation—only stainless steel and fiberglass—and the wine is bottled without fining. They are lucky to emerge with more than 500 cases in a bountiful vintage!
Pull the cork, decant for 20 minutes, and then pour directly into Burgundy stems before sitting down and immersing yourself in this stunning Alto Piemonte rosso. With a few swirls, it fills the senses with bright cherry, spiced plum, licorice, pomegranate, leather, crushed earth, graphite, damp moss, tomato leaf, and hints of cracked pepper. The palate is medium-plus bodied with supple tannins but it’s Nebbiolo’s pronounced acidity that keeps this lifted and humming like a new engine. The savoriness on the mid-palate expands further as the finish opens up with multiple layers of bright berry fruit and a dark, crushed mineral component. Enjoy now and over the next five years. What a sensational wine!
