Description
Darviot-Perrin, Meursault 1er Cru “Perrières” & “Genevrières” Two-Pack
Burgundy experts have long wondered aloud why the village of Meursault has no Grand Cru-designated vineyards. Who knows, maybe we’ll see that change in our lifetime—and if there are any vineyards likely to be “elevated” from Premier Cru, most agree that “Les Perrières,” “Les Genevrières,” and “Les Charmes” are the most likely candidates. Today, thanks to one of the most fortuitous direct-import deals we’ve ever made, we can offer two of Meursault’s Big Three from the excellent 2017 vintage. The specs on this offer are as impressive as they come: boutique producer, a smidgen of bottle age, and ultra-prime vineyard real estate all add up to some seriously elite, age-worthy white Burgundy.
Didier Darviot, who learned his craft alongside his legendary father-in-law, Pierre Perrin, has kept things in the family by bringing his daughter, Alix-Anne, into the fold, and their 11 hectares of vineyards (inherited from the Perrin side of the family) include choice vineyards in Meursault, Volnay, and Chassagne, and today’s two-pack showcases the precise, nuanced style of the domaine. There’s texture galore in these two Meursaults, but also a gem-cut brilliance that reminds me of some of my favorites from Comtes Lafon and Bitouzet-Prieur. I’m really excited to offer this two-pack—I just wish we had more! Limit two per customer until our stash disappears!
NOTE: This special parcel will be arriving at our warehouse in mid-January.
Darviot-Perrin is a domaine of relatively recent formation: the first “commercial” vintage was 1989. The vineyards, however, which Didier’s wife, Geneviève, inherited from her family, go back much further. The average age of the estate’s vines is 60 years (!), and their holdings include not just the “greatest hits” of Meursault but a plot in Chassagne-Montrachet’s “Blanchot-Dessus,” which sits just below Grand Cru Le Montrachet. Didier and Alix-Anne are known for exacting work in the vineyards and employ organic practices, although they are not certified. In the cellar, their whites are whole-cluster pressed, fermented using ambient yeasts, and aged in 25% new Allier oak barrels for 12 months. Aging in oak is followed by six months more in tank before the wines are bottled.
Whether you decide to try them side-by-side or on two separate (special) occasions, this is the top of the Meursault pyramid. Let’s start with “Perrières.” As celebrated author Clive Coates, MW, has said, Perrières is the Premier Cru that “most people would agree produces Meursault’s best wine.” Wedged between famed neighboring Premier Cru “Charmes” and the northern border with Puligny-Montrachet, the limestone-rich Perrières is known for producing Meursault of unparalleled precision and structure. Right next door is Genevrières, which, despite its proximity, is known for rounder, more opulent expressions of Chardonnay.
I’m of two minds as to when and how to drink these beauties. On the one hand, both will age well for at least a decade more (the Perrières especially), but on the other hand, a splash-decant about 60 minutes before service and you’ll be very happy with what’s on offer now. Either way, serve these in large all-purpose stems or even red Burgundy bowls and let the temperature come up to about 50 degrees for best results. Obviously, you’ll need to cook something worthy of such special bottles, so reach for your preferred seafood-centric cookbook and get to work! The effort will be well worth it. Cheers!
