Description
Delmas, “SJR Vineyard” Syrah
Today promises to be a thrilling day for many. For years, we’ve discussed the dichotomy of “New World vs. Old World” Syrah in great detail, but we find the best way to learn about the nuances of wine is through firsthand experience. Accordingly, we’ve drummed up two extremely special yet drastically different micro-cuvées that are guaranteed to provide profound enlightenment while also delivering one of Syrah’s most fascinating one-two punches.
First up, we have a surprise second allocation of a sellout from nearly one year ago: The wine is Delmas’ 2018 “SJR Vineyard,” an opulent juggernaut that stands calmly alongside America’s most expensive and wildly sought-after Syrahs like Sine Qua Non, Colgin, and Cayuse’s “Bionic Frog.” We’re in “The Rocks” in northeastern Oregon, a red-hot region that Wine Spectator calls “the most distinctive in the United States.” An appellation within an appellation within an appellation, this tiny, terroir-specific (basalt) AVA is planted to fewer than 40 vineyards, scrapped over by just 30 wineries, and has served as the raw material for multiple perfect-scoring wines. In other words, The Rocks and Delmas’ $79 Syrah is an obtainable dream for culty wine collectors with a propensity for extraordinary value and curiosity. When it comes to luxurious, micro-produced, cellar-worthy Syrah, this is among the savviest acquisitions one can make! Up to six bottles per person.
NOTE: Keep your eyes peeled later today for the sensational “Old World” offer. Hint: It’s French!
Like a Matryoshka doll, The Rocks AVA has layers. It’s within the sprawling Columbia Valley, and also within the smaller Walla Walla Valley, both of which slightly bleed into Oregon’s northeastern reaches. The Rocks was established in 2015 and became not only one of the smallest AVAs (just 5.9 square miles) in America but the most terroir-specific. It’s an alluvial fan strewn with cobbles made entirely of basalt from the neighboring Blue Mountains, and according to The Rocks’ website is “the only AVA in the United States whose boundaries were determined by a single landform and a single soil series.” Obviously, this is bound to attract small-scale winemakers with a penchant for clean farming, and that’s where Delmas enters the story.
Delmas founders Steve and Mary Robertson established their 10-acre “SJR” vineyard in 2007, with their daughter Brooke Delmas serving as their Director of Winegrowing. All the while, they have focused on this single site, tending to their vines with comprehensive sustainability and only expanding their raw material by three additional acres. Additionally, Steve was pivotal in pushing through the formation of The Rocks AVA and has served on its non-profit board ever since.
After harvesting the grapes for today’s 2018 Syrah by hand, they were trucked to their cellar about 10 miles north, into Washington. From there, the Syrah grapes were cold-soaked for nearly one full week before a fermentation that consisted of twice-daily punch-downs. The newly born wine then matured for 14 months in French barrels, 60% new, before being bottled without finning or filtration. The 2018 vintage also marks Delmas’ first year harvesting Viognier (from the SJR vineyard), so as classic examples of Côte-Rôtie are wont to do, a small percentage was blended into today’s Syrah to provide even more aromatic lift, spice, and generosity.
The end result is a luxurious powerhouse that demands air, bulbous stems, and 5+ years of further cellar aging if one is looking to experience a deeply savory side. An opaque black-purple hue emerges in the glass, encircled by a bright magenta rim and thick tears. After a minimum 60-minute decant (or pulling the cork 2-3 hours before service), you’ll discover intoxicating aromas of black cherry liqueur, boysenberry, crème de cassis, Damson plum, raspberry coulis, licorice, espresso, smoked meat, grilled herbs, charred rose petal, tapenade, and rich baking spices. This is a silky, hedonistic, seamlessly layered Syrah that is an absolute joy right now, but it’s got the energy and verve for further evolution. I think it’ll easily hit 2030 in full stride but don’t feel guilty uncorking a few between now and then. In fact, I recommend it. Cheers!
