Description
Domaine Arlaud, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Domaine Arlaud began with the WWII-era marriage of Joseph Arlaud to Renée Amiot, whose family owned several prime Burgundy vineyards, including pieces of the Clos St. Denis and Bonnes Mares Grand Crus. Joseph’s son Hervé followed, expanding the Domaine’s holdings further, then in 1997 it was Hervé’s son Cyprien’s turn to run the show. Perhaps the hallmark achievement of Cyprien’s tenure has been his conversion to biodynamic farming—fully certified in 2014, and the first in his home village of Morey-Saint-Denis. His cherished sites are plowed by horse, and as one of Arlaud’s importers has noted, Cyprien’s sister, Bertille, has become “one of the most important horse-ploughers in France.” How’s that for a credential?!
There is a HOFer list of Burgundy domaines that own a stand of vines in Clos de la Roche, with Dujac topping the price scale at close to $1,000. Arlaud’s single hectare of 30-40-year-old vines is located in the highest-elevated lieu-dit of “Les Mochamps,” and thanks to meticulous biodynamic farming and a gentle touch in the cellar, Arlaud’s bottling has become one of the greatest forces to be reckoned with. His fruit is vinified naturally and separately with a small portion of whole clusters left intact. The resulting wine then ages in French barrels, typically no more than 30% new, and is bottled unfined and unfiltered in accordance with the lunar calendar.
Cyprien’s approach in the cellar is described as “non-interventionist,” which can result in some reductive, high-strung wines in their youth. Like most young, expertly crafted Grand Crus, this 2021 Clos de la Roche is not meant for enjoyment right now: its perfume, purity, and gorgeously stitched structure all point to one thing: This is destined for greatness. If you just can’t stand to wait and need to open a bottle in the next five years give it a good, long decant. But ideally this beauty will rest comfortably in a cellar, wine fridge, or cold storage unit for at least another decade.
