Description
Domaine Casenobe, Rivesaltes
Southern France’s Vin Doux Naturel (VDN), was first made in the 13th century when mutage was discovered. Put simply, this is a process where a neutral spirit is added to prematurely kill yeast and suspend fermentation, leaving a concentrated, sweet wine with elevated alcohol (essentially the same practice used to make Port, but this does not taste like Port!). The Languedoc-Roussillon region has been the traditional home of these wines in appellations such as Maury, Banyuls, and Rivesaltes.
Not much information can be gleaned from Domaine Casenobe: Given the limited results online, it seems this small family property only bottled wines in the 1970s. Really, this bottling of ’72 is among the only vestiges of their existence. I would assume this offering predominantly consists of fortified Grenache Noir that rested in a foudre (a massive, old French barrel) for well over four decades before Philippe Gayral bottled it without additives.
For gems like this, I must reiterate that it would be a crime to lose it in a cluster of wines at a party, so make sure you’re in a clear state of mind and in a quieter environment with close friends. One or two ounces should be served around 55-60 degrees in an all-purpose stem and savored slowly. Plus, because each sweet sip brings incalculable depth, power, and concentration, there’s no rush to consume your bottle: It can be enjoyed over several weeks and months if placed in the fridge with the cork tightly inserted—or further cellared for decades to come.
