Description
Domaine Chasselay, Gamay “Je T’aime Mais J’ai Soif”
We’ve all been there: You open a bottle you’ve been looking forward to for days and it’s a letdown. Now you need something to correct the course, something surefire, a wine so delicious you’ll forget that first one quickly. What’s your play? More often than not for me, it’s Gamay from Beaujolais, and Domaine Chasselay’s “Je T’aime Mais J’ai Soif” is exactly the vivacious burst of energy I’m looking for.
Full of bright raspberry and plum fruit, florals, and lots of mineral bass notes, this 2020 has a savory depth that elevates it beyond mere glou-glou status; it hits the table and everything’s all right again. We here at SommSelect tread lightly when it comes to overtly “natural” wines: Too many go beyond mere quirk into undrinkably flawed territory. But here’s a wine that delivers on all the natural wine promises—Certified Organic, low sulfur, unoaked—while also being carefully made and true to its place. If you’ve ever wondered just why Beaujolais is the quintessential bistro wine, grab some of this and find out. Just make sure to get extra, because any bottle you open will be gone too soon!
“Natural wine” may be a trendy topic right now, but “Je T’aime Mais J’ai Soif” (“I love you but I’m thirsty”) is just the latest chapter in a long story of traditional winemaking in Beaujolais. In the mid-20th century, viticulture all over the world turned more industrial and chemical-intensive, and winemaking followed suit. The first pushback against this trend was launched in Beaujolais by winemaker, chemist, and négociant Jules Chauvet. He took under his wing a group of winemakers who are now household names: Marcel Lapierre, Jean Foillard, and Guy Breton. They brought back the most classic Beaujolais winemaking style, wherein whole bunches are placed into vats and fermented spontaneously, resulting in a “semi-carbonic” style that combines lift and perfume with deep, spicy warmth. Chasselay follows suit here, with a wine that emphasizes drinkability and joy without sacrificing a sense of place. Ponder or quaff—the choice is yours.
Domaine Chasselay is the natural winery of your dreams. The family has lived in Châtillon d’Azergues, about 15 miles north of Lyon and in the heart of Beaujolais, for more than 600 years. Their vineyards are farmed organically, with no chemical or synthetic treatments; flowers and hedgerows grow between plots; and weeds are still tilled mechanically. Jean-Gilles and Christiane Chasselay got organic certification in 2006, and their children Claire and Fabien (the 14th generation) have introduced biodynamic techniques. That delicate touch continues in the cellar. Fermentations take place naturally, wines are unfiltered and unfined, and only a trace amount of sulfur is added before bottling for safe shipping.
Purity and vibrancy are the name of the game for this cuvée, which contains 100% Gamay (a small portion of which comes from just outside appellation lines, hence the Vin de France designation). It is given a six day semi-carbonic maceration to emphasize the most exuberant aspects of the variety. A pale ruby in the glass, the nose exudes all sorts of sweet Rainier cherry, candied red plum, fresh rose petals, and strawberry jam, underlain by high-toned cedar and clove spiciness. The palate is energetic and acid-driven, without being too angular; there’s a softness to the sweet fruit and a rounded texture that keeps things succulent. Tarter red fruits like raspberry and sour cherry bring a further refreshment to the palate. You could serve this in a Burgundy glass to fully appreciate the swirling aromatics, but really, chill it down to a cool 50 degrees and enjoy from an all-purpose glass and you’re all set. I love cutting through heartier autumnal fare like chicken in red wine vinegar with a wine this invigorating and pretty, but don’t hesitate to drink oodles of this on its own. Cheers!
