Description
Domaine Daulny, Sancerre Blanc “Le Clos de Chaudenay”
The go-to adjective for just about any classic Sancerre we encounter is “racy,” but the wines of Etienne Daulny require a heavier descriptive lift. Daulny’s vieilles vignes (old vines) produce some of the most profound and powerful Sancerre wines this side of Dagueneau—and by “this side” I mean the shockingly affordable side. This is one of the most headily aromatic, richly textured expressions of Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc one could hope to find, which makes its modest price tag almost impossible to fathom.
Not only was 2020 the latest in a long, unbroken string of excellent vintages in the Loire, but the parcel it is sourced from—the “Clos de Chaudenay,” perched atop a mound of Kimmeridgian limestone—is a charmed one. It’s a full-south exposure that consistently delivers a full-throttle Sauvignon, one that offers lots of thrills now but promises many more over the next few years. That’s a lot of wine for $35, so shop accordingly. Once you’ve tried one, you’ll be relieved to have more waiting in the wings!
The Daulny property is based near the village of Verdigny, just north of the town of Sancerre. Among the 15 hectares of vines Daulny owns, there are 50 plots scattered across the Sancerre appellation area, including prime parcels in the well-known vineyards “Les Monts Damnés,” “Les Bois Butteux,” and “La Perrière.” Amazingly, fruit from these locations goes into Daulny’s entry-level Sancerre blend. The vineyard featured in his top single-vineyard bottling is a walled site called “Clos de Chaudenay” (rough translation: “hot-spot”), which is located next to the winery. In addition to its south-facing exposition, the site has an especially high percentage of Kimmeridgian limestone. This ancient marine soil is found in Champagne, Chablis, and Sancerre, with this ridge starting in the village of Bué and running through Chavignol and Verdigny. Sauvignon Blancs grown on Kimmeridgian soils tend to yield the most powerful, longest lasting wines, containing both ripe fruit and sturdy acidic structure for aging.
In the vineyard, Daulny works traditionally, harvesting everything by hand and keeping his yields low compared to most growers in the region. All his wines are fermented in stainless steel tanks and without malolactic fermentation, to preserve freshness. Étienne knows that with the Clos de Chaudenay, he is dealing with something more than just another Sancerre and he treats it as such. Accordingly, he ages 20% of the wine in used 600 liter barrels (demi-muids) adding texture and richness with the additional oxygen, a practice employed by other renowned growers in the area such as François and Pascal Cotat.
In the glass, it displays a deeper straw-gold hue than most silvery Sancerres. It is lush and accessible right out of the bottle, but decanting it for 15 minutes or so will really bring out its technicolor spectrum of flavors and aromas. There are some of the telltale Sauvignon Blanc aromas of grapefruit and other citrus, along with heady notes of green mango, cantaloupe, créme fraîche, lime zest, and lemon curd. There’s a taut mineral spine underneath the rich layers of fruit, with flavors of marzipan, pear, and orange blossom honey emerging with time in the glass. The way this wine balances its richness with brisk acidity is downright amazing. Drink it chilled, of course, but let it come up to 50-55 degrees. Pour it into larger-sized stems to really get the full effect and pair it with a lemony, buttery fish preparation like the one in the attached recipe. You won’t overpower it, nor will you forget it. Enjoy!
