Description
Domaine de Beauséjour, Chinon
Not everyone needs to be a sommelier-in-training, but if you’re reading this email I’m guessing you’d like to have a working knowledge of the world’s most classic wines. Today, you can scratch one of them off the list because Beauséjour’s quintessential, time-tested Chinon is a classicist’s dream.
Even before taking a sip, all the hallmarks I look for are right there in the glass: crunchy wild berry fruit, green peppercorn, damp soil, crushed herbs—and it’s all laced together with the lift, refinement, and purity that one should demand from Cabernet Franc. Cab Franc contributes its appealing character to the great blended reds of Right Bank Bordeaux, but in the Loire Valley it’s really able to shine on its own, especially in a classic bottling of Chinon. And when it’s crafted sincerely, with exceptional attention to detail, it’s an easy “get” in a blind tasting, yes, but also one of the great pleasures of life for me. Additionally, it’s an excellent summer red when served with a light chill, but there’s also enough substance and “seriousness” there to be enjoyed (or studied) all year round.
Domaine de Beauséjour has been owned by the Chauveau family since 1951, and is currently run by Gérard and David Chauveau—the son and grandson of founder Jacques. When Jacques purchased the original property, it had been a simple, no-frills farm, so when Gérard inherited it in 1968, he set out to transform it into a high-quality wine estate. A year later, he planted the first vines, gradually increasing the size of the property and updating the winery over time. Since 1995, his son has been the primary winemaker. The estate, nestled between the communes of Panzoult and Cravant Les Coteaux, comprises 27 hectares of Chinon AOC vines, planted entirely to Cabernet Franc on well-exposed slopes of limestone-rich clay and sand.
With cool breezes rolling through the valley, courtesy of the Atlantic Ocean, an invigorating freshness is preserved in the grapes come harvest. Once the clusters arrive at Beauséjour’s cellar, fermentation occurs in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks and the resulting wine briefly matures in used French oak barrels. The wine is lightly filtered prior to bottling.
Again, today’s wine is as textbook as it gets for Chinon. In the glass, it’s on the lighter end of the Cab Franc color spectrum—a deep crimson red with subtle pink and purple highlights. The nose is highly aromatic, with notes of red and black currant, green tobacco, freshly turned earth, damp forest floor, and violets misted with morning dew. You won’t find any intense bell pepper pyrazine here, just a gentle kiss of green peppercorn and fresh herbs. On the silky palate, the fruit is elegant and pronounced, with moderate but mouth-watering acidity and supple, slightly crunchy tannins. This is a Chinon of nuance and refinement, perfect for popping on a cool summer evening. After a quick 15-minute decant, serve it slightly chilled in Burgundy stems to highlight the wine’s beautiful perfume. A plate of your favorite cheese and charcuterie would be a great complement to this bottle, but it would also work with a more elevated dish like braised lamb shanks or roasted lamb chops with plenty of herbs and garlic. Enjoy it over the 3-5 years.
