Description
Domaine des Malandes, Chablis Premier Cru “Vau de Vey”
It goes without saying that I love to drink Chablis, but what I love even more is sharing producers that greatly over-deliver, and Malandes’ value-loaded lineup of Premier Crus is practically indomitable. Truly, this prized terroir captures the world’s most vivid and transparent expression of Chardonnay, and today’s 2019 Vau de Vey is the 8K hero shot that brings Chablis’ Jurassic soils to life.
Raised with a brilliant balance of steel and oak, it delivers luxurious textures, outstanding energy, and profound minerality that have been further magnified by the 2019 vintage. When I first tasted this wine in February—before it had left Malandes’ cellar door—I immediately secured every bottle that was offered to me. I thought it was extraordinary. The parcel has since arrived, and six additional months of bottle age have allowed it to develop an even deeper sense of nuance and intrigue, thereby elevating my definition of “extraordinary.” Only a tiny amount of this dazzling Premier Cru graces our shores each year, and we don’t anticipate seeing any more of it. This quality here is nearly incomparable for the price—do not miss this limited opportunity!
Lyne Marchive is a deeply passionate vigneron who was at the helm of her family’s domaine for nearly 50 years before handing the reins to her daughter and son in 2018. For the past 15 years, winemaker Guénolé Breteaudeau has also been a guiding light, crafting impeccably balanced wines with as little intervention as possible, and today’s is our favorite Premier Cru. Just south of the celebrated “Beauroy” vineyard and across the river from Chablis’ band of Grand Crus, lies “Vau de Vey,” an ancient site with archives as far back as 1537. The name has been traced to the Latin word vadum, meaning a shallow crossing or ford, but the most distinguishing characteristic of Vau de Vey is its steepness. Along with its extreme slope, the site also benefits from a southeastern exposure that provides ample ripening in this cooler valley. The soils here are classic Kimmeridgian—an exposed limestone mixed with ancient maritime fossils that took form over 150 million years ago—which results in wines with impossible-to-mimic minerality.
The Marchives own a contiguous, three-hectare parcel of 40-year-old vines in this flag-bearing 1er Cru, and the crop is twice-sorted before entering the cellar. All grapes are gently pressed and the juice ferments, including malolactic, in an equal blend of stainless steel and oak (both Burgundy barrels and larger demi-muids). Today’s 2019 was bottled in mid-2020 and was allowed further rest in their cellar.
After a 30-minute decant and served at 50 degrees in Burgundy stems, Domaine Malandes’ 2019 “Vau de Vey” unravels in the glass with energetic aromas of green apple skin, yellow pear, candied lemon peel, and oyster shell that’s enhanced by ample lushness. Even without any new oak, this is a luxurious, medium-plus-bodied Chablis with gorgeous balance and delineated textures that will appeal to connoisseurs of Côte de Beaune and California alike. Every layer is filled with precise notes of citrus blossoms, ripe orchard fruit, and finely crushed minerality. It’s actually shocking how generous and “complete” this Premier Cru Chardonnay is at a young age, but that doesn’t mean it’ll be short-lived! I see this evolving beautifully over the next 3-5 years. Enjoy!
