Description
Domaine des Ronces, Crémant du Jura
Hello, and welcome to another edition of “Champagne Quality at a Fraction of the Price.” Our contestant today comes from the Jura, about 250 miles southeast of Champagne and yet closer, in so many ways, than it seems:
The two regions share similarly limestone-rich soils and cool climates, and even work with some of the same grapes, in this case Chardonnay. As with all wines labeled crémant, this meticulously hand-crafted sparkler is produced in the “Champagne method” and, after that second, in-bottle fermentation, enjoys a long period of aging on its lees before it is disgorged and bottled. As for the tiny Domaine des Ronces and their take on Crémant du Jura, the credentials are extra-impressive: Certified Biodynamic farming delivers fruit of exceptional purity and energy to the sorting table, and the Mazier family lends a light, but steady hand in the cellar. This much minerality, texture, fruit, and overall sumptuousness is more than anyone could expect at $34, but here it is. We’ve had a few non-Champagne sparklers blow the roof off the place recently, but this may be the one to top them all. Having a case of this on hand for the many occasions coming up in the months ahead represents the ultimate in preparedness. Are you prepared?
I appreciate a producer that can make many different styles of wine—red, white, sparkling, etc.—equally well. This describes Domaine des Ronces perfectly. Founded in 1950, patriarch Georges Mazier founded the estate with a single hectare of Chardonnay. Thirty-six years later, his son, Michel, added five more hectares to their holdings, including their first block of Poulsard. Michel began pivoting to organic farming in the early 2000s, followed by his son, Kevin, who took things a step further by incorporating biodynamic teas, composts, and tinctures (he is responsible for the incredibly difficult work of achieving Domaine des Ronces’ official Demeter certification in 2016).
Commonly misunderstood as a mountainous region, the Jura is in fact narrow valley in the hills between Burgundy and Switzerland. Like Burgundy, it used to be a former seabed. Walk through the vineyards and you’ll see bone-like chunks of limestone embedded in the soil, each from a different period: Bathonian, Bajocian, and Jurassic. But unlike Burgundy, the Jura, which sits about an hour to the east, is nestled against the dramatic uplift of a mountain range. We often describe our favorite Champagnes as tasting like “Burgundy with bubbles,” and I’d describe Crémant du Jura (and, of course, Crémant de Bourgogne) the same way.
This wine has all the raciness and mineral edge (no malolactic!) you’d expect from a proper méthode champenoise sparkler, but with plenty of vinous depth and persistence, too (24 months of lees aging!). Crafted from biodynamic Chardonnay, it displays a bright straw-gold core and fine, persistent bubbles, with inviting aromas of yellow apple, lemon pith, crusty bread, chopped hazelnuts, and wet stones. It has a layered mouthfeel, with lots of mid-palate fruit followed by bracing minerality and acidity on the finish. What I like about this best is that it really drinks like wine (however strange that may sound) and will really be at its best with food. At 45-50 degrees in all-purpose stems it will certainly be a great kickoff to a meal with gougères or other appetizers, but I’d love a nice Burgundy bowl full of this with some roast chicken and potatoes. Stock up on this: You’ll be glad you did!
