Description
Domaine Etienne Delarche, Pernand-Vergelesses “Les Combottes”
When it comes to Burgundy—arguably the most expensive wine habit there is—the absolute best we can do for you is to identify, and amplify, producers like Etienne Delarche. From his perch in the criminally underrated hamlet of Pernand-Vergelesses, looking out at the storied hill of Corton, Delarche has been such a perennial over-achiever for us that I’m hard-pressed to think of many peers. This is for whites and reds alike, mind you, and in today’s blanc from the “Les Combottes” vineyard, we have the kind of well-priced, “secret weapon” white Burgundy that makes anyone who serves it look like a genius.
I’d put this 2020 up against any Côte de Beaune Premier Cru—everyone here at SommSelect did double takes upon tasting it, and there was some squabbling over the remains of the sample bottle, so loaded was it with texture, aromatic complexity, and mineral drive. It’s the kind of wine that reminds everyone, in no uncertain terms, why so many wine lovers go down the Burgundy rabbit hole, never to return. And here’s the thing: Most hardcore Burg-o-philes would happily pay twice as much for the experience—but why be a label-chaser when this home run of a wine is there for the taking at $45?
I’ll say it one more time: This is a serious, memorable white Burgundy. As we’ve noted in countless previous offers, the Delarche property—ably run by Etienne Delarche—is tucked away in the hills of Pernand-Vergelesses, where most of the family’s 9 hectares of vineyards are located. This includes Pernand Premier Crus like “Sous Frétille” and “En Caradeux,” both of which are tantalizingly close to the Grand Crus of the Corton hill, including “Corton-Charlemagne,” where Delarche also has a presence. “Les Combottes,” which is a lieu-dit (a named vineyard without any official ranking), is north of Sous Frétille, situated at a higher altitude and facing east. Altitude, in fact, plays a key role in this wine’s style—it is typically a very perfumed, high-toned, mineral-driven style, one which the wine’s importer perfectly describes as “chiseled.”
But, in 2020, Delarche has also treated us to some beautiful creamy texture—layers of apple and pear Chardonnay goodness atop that crushed-rock base. Vine age on Les Combottes exceeds 30 years, which may explain this wine’s voluptuousness in a vintage many described as “fresh” and “slim.” I’d call this 2020 vibrant and muscular—not at all fat. It was barrel-fermented on indigenous yeasts, then aged in mostly used French oak barrels for about a year before being bottled unfined and unfiltered.
In the glass, “Les Combottes” has a reflective yellow-gold core moving to light green at the rim. This is always an assertively mineral wine, which you’ll perceive immediately on the nose: It leads with crushed-stone aromas layered with notes of green and yellow apple, lime blossom, citrus, white mushroom, white flowers, and tangy note reminiscent of goat’s milk chèvre. With air, the wine broadens considerably, its apple/pear component coating the mid-palate before the satisfyingly stony, spicy finish. It’s a testament to the beautiful construction of this wine that it is tantalizing to drink now (after about 15 minutes of air) but clearly built to last. I truly can’t wait to see what this wine turns into in 2-3 years; I think it’s already something special, but the best is yet to come. As always, don’t serve it too cold or you’ll stifle the aromatics—let it come up close to cellar temperature (55 degrees). It will make a superb partner to a saucy, lemony seafood preparation from the old school. Simple perfection!
