Description
Domaine Florian Le Capitaine, Vouvray Sec
Every so often, it helps to remind everyone about the awesome versatility and invigorating deliciousness of Loire Valley Chenin Blanc. It is too often overlooked. If Chardonnay is the universally beloved prom queen, and Riesling is the brainy, unconventionally beautiful valedictorian, Chenin Blanc is the free-spirited lead in the school play—and arguably the most crush-worthy of them all.
Today, we travel to the hallowed hills of Vouvray for not one, but two of the myriad expressions of Chenin Blanc this appellation is famous for. We begin with rising-star vigneron Florian Le Capitaine and his electrifying, bone-dry Vouvray Sec, a Chenin which sent shivers down SommSelect spines with its thrilling combination of palate-coating depth and palate-cleansing acidity and minerality. This is an arresting, commanding, beguiling white wine, one that calls to mind some of the great dry Vouvrays of legends like Huet. Florian is the real deal, having only recently hung out his own shingle after spending more than six years at his family’s acclaimed estate in Vouvray. Everything about this Sec—especially the price—is 100% spot on. Do not miss it.
The 28-hectare Domaine Le Capitaine, Florian’s training ground, was founded by his father, Alain, in 1988. Florian started his own label beginning in 2019, working with roughly six hectares of organically farmed vines on Vouvray’s “Première Côte” (“first slope”), a stretch of south-facing parcels in stony, limestone-rich soils that contains most of the Vouvray AOC’s most prized vineyards (including Huet’s “Le Haut-Lieu” and “Le Mont”). More specifically, Florian sources from a site called “Les Aumônes” in the town of Rochecorbon, which neighbors Vouvray to the west; he has been in the process of full conversion to biodynamic viticulture, under the guidance of longtime Huet winemaker Jean-Bernard Berthomé.
Today’s ’21 was fermented on ambient yeasts in used oak barrels, after which it aged in barrels for about four months in contact with the fine lees. This extremely judicious use of oak resulted in a wine of great texture and depth that nevertheless retained its spine-tingling acidity and shattered limestone minerality.
In the glass, it shines a bright yellow-gold with flecks of green, with exotic aromas of poached quince, green and yellow apple, Anjou pear, white peach, acacia honey, wild herbs, raw hazelnuts, and crushed chalk. Medium-bodied (leaning toward medium-plus) and laser-focused, it lingers on the mouthwatering finish for what seems like minutes. At this stage in its young life, I’d suggest decanting it a good 30 minutes before service in all-purpose stems at 45-50 degrees. As you wait for this $34 stunner to blossom, pull out your favorite seafood cookbook and get to work! Enjoy!
