Description
Domaine Georges Lignier, Bourgogne Passetoutgrain
Today offers the unique chance to taste Burgundy’s famed two red grapes in a single bottle, from one of the region’s legendary surnames: Lignier. The cousin of icon Hubert Lignier, Georges’ 2019 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain is a category-defining blend of Pinot and Gamay hailing from old vines in the hallowed village of Morey-Saint-Denis. And it does all that while sporting a $30 price tag.
The result is a wondrous red with Côte de Nuits complexity and Cru Beaujolais exuberance. It’s a bottle to greedily consume now while also squirreling a few away for enjoyment in 2-3 years’ time. Remember, most bottles on US shelves bearing the “Lignier” imprimatur are likely to be ruthlessly expensive, so take the name, quality, and outstanding price of today’s wine and run with it!
Upon pouring, a slight hint of purple and fuchsia tells us we’re not fully in Pinot land here. Nonetheless, this should be treated as though we were, served in Burgundy stems and cooled to about 60 degrees. The nose is beautiful, full of mouthwatering cranberry, black raspberry, Morello cherry, and purple plum fruit, followed by rose petals, white pepper, and a touch of damp earth. The palate is medium-bodied and juicy, trending towards the darker, more Gamay-like end of the spectrum with blueberries and plums coming to the fore. Gamay’s purple-fruited roundness fills out Pinot’s filigreed acidity, and there’s just enough tannin here for it to be served alongside some meat. The complexity is staggering considering the price and appellation, and I’ve got no doubt this will reward anyone who can keep their hands off it until 2025. But just in case you can’t, play it safe and grab a handful!
