Description
Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson, Saint-Romain Rouge “Sous Roche”
The Buissons of Saint-Romain have a simple and compelling message for all the Burgundy lovers out there: Don’t be a label chaser. Be a great wine chaser. As much as names like “Gevrey-Chambertin” or “Corton” ring out among Pinot Noir lovers, it’s what’s inside the bottle that counts most. And frankly, it might be more impressive to show up with a Saint-Romain that blows away pricier competition than with a more recognizable “brand-name” bottle.
The money you spend on a bottle of Buisson Saint-Romain goes entirely to organically farmed, lovingly crafted, utterly authentic wine—not to hype. We’re overpaying for so many things these days but there’s no need when a value of this magnitude is on the table. How does an impeccably pure, surprisingly powerful (thanks 2019) Pinot Noir from 50-year-old vines sound? Good, indeed. Take up to six bottles of Buisson’s “Sous Roche” and hold onto at least a few. You’re going to look like a genius when you open one 3-5 years from now!
As we discussed in an earlier offer, Saint-Romain is one of Burgundy’s lesser-known “west side” villages—and a subject of great fascination for all of us here at SommSelect, especially when the producer in question is Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson. This isn’t just a historically significant estate in Saint-Romain, it is arguably the strongest and most consistent, with reds and whites alike. New-generation proprietors Fred and Franck Buisson have been Certified Organic since 2009, and, while Saint-Romain may still be thought of as an “outer-borough” appellation, the wines get their fair share of critical acclaim and high-end restaurant exposure. I can still remember when a friend texted me a photo of the wine list at Septime, one of Paris’ hardest-to-secure dinner reservations. Sure enough, there were multiple vintages of Buisson on the otherwise succinct list. These are undervalued, but hardly unknown, wines.
Just a few minutes into the hills west of Volnay, the steep limestone-flecked slopes of Saint-Romain offer a similar, but slightly cooler, terroir. In moderate or cold vintages, red Saint-Romain can be a little austere—this is one of the highest elevation villages in the Côte de Beaune. But in a riper, sun-drenched year like 2019, the village’s top old-vine parcels are a veritable Burgundy goldmine—and an extremely convincing, lower-priced substitute for top-quality Volnay. There are no $500-per-bottle cuvées in Saint-Romain and you won’t find any Premier or Grand Cru vineyards, but I’d deem this ’19 “Sous Roche” of Premier Cru quality at a minimum. This is exceptional wine.
The 2019 edition of “Sous Roche” tastes, as it always does, much more expensive than it is. In the glass, it displays a deep ruby/crimson core with garnet reflections at the rim. The aromas are a riot of perfumed black cherry, black currant, crushed roses, wet ferns, mushroom, underbrush, and a hint of toasty oak. Every detail sings in perfect harmony with the next. The thing that really sets this wine apart—beyond its undeniable quality and fair price—is that it’s delicious right now. And although I have total confidence it will improve and become deeper and more expressive for another 5-8 years, nothing should stop you from drinking a bottle right away. Pull the cork, decant for 30 minutes, and reward yourself with a full Burgundy stem of this spectacular wine, served at 60 degrees. The dish I crave with it is cassoulet. Yes, it will take some time, but a dish this memorable deserves extra effort; alongside two bottles of this exceptional wine, you’re guaranteed to blow away a dinner party of your closest friends. Enjoy!
