Description
Domaine Huber-Verdereau, Volnay 1er Cru “Clos des Chênes”
Rare is the chance to flaunt any of Thiébault Huber’s Premier Crus, let alone the Holy Grail that is “Clos des Chênes”: Last year, everyone had a one-day window to acquire his 2018 release, and today brings yet another limited opportunity to pounce on his tremendous 2019s.
Generally speaking, you’re not getting your hands on this coveted Volnay Premier Cru collectible unless you’re knocking on Huber’s cellar door or rubbing shoulders with the most fanatical, in-the-know Burg collectors. The man has only crafted it a few times—no one seems to know how many, most don’t even know it exists—and if a small parcel does exit his cellar, it’s almost impossible to track down. Between the last four vintages, less than 50 combined cases found their way into America: 10 cases of his 2016 slipped overseas and instantly sold out; his 2017s were simply MIA; and we snatched up the entire allocation of 2018s (sold out) and 2019s. As for older vintages? They may as well be phantoms on the market because an online search will yield zero hits. So here we are, with what barely qualifies as an allocation of his 2019 release, but we’re still thrilled as always to share it. Coming from Huber’s 0.18-hectare, old-vine parcel in Clos des Chênes, this fantastically lush and explosive Pinot Noir epitomizes a fabled 1er Cru terroir as seen through a 100% biodynamic lens. A sellout is imminent—you all know the drill!
Thiébault Huber was on the sommelier scene decades ago when he heard vignerons discussing the shift to organics and, on rare occasions, biodynamics. While pouring, talking wine, and smiling, he logged mental notes and, from that, formed ideas—ideas that largely shape the way he runs his tiny estate today. Further influences came from Jean-Michel Deiss of Alsace’s culty Domaine Marcel Deiss and his globally renowned neighbor in Volnay, Frederic Lafarge, where he witnessed the enormous benefits of biodynamics. Because of this, he saw organic farming as a mere stepping stone, a transitional phase towards the greater goal of complete biodynamics, which he achieved in 2005. Coincidentally, that is the same year his wines caught the attention of Burgundy icon Allen Meadows, and from there, his stock surged. Since then, Robinson and Bergman have discovered the magic being created here, but there’s one underlying problem: His top wines are practically untraceable in America!
Huber is from Alsace, and the Verdereau part of his domaine name came from his maternal grandfather, a vigneron in Volnay who retired in 1974 with no one in the family to take over his vineyards. The family held onto them, renting them out to others until Thiébault eventually made his way to Volnay and re-established the domaine in the early ‘90s with just a couple of prized hectares. Today, Huber has meticulously expanded to 9.5 hectares of vines spread across numerous appellations, including Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault, Pommard, and his home base in Volnay.
The village of Volnay produces among the most elegant and gorgeously perfumed reds not only in Burgundy, but the world. And while Volnay is home to dozens of Premier Crus, there is near-universal agreement that five ancient vineyards (Premier Crus “Clos des Chênes,” “Taillepieds,” “Caillerets,” “Champans,” and “Santenots”) produce the village’s top wines. These are Volnay’s unofficial “Grand Crus.” Furthermore, if one seeks the ultimate detail, finesse, and intoxicating Pinot Noir aromatics in a village revered for such traits, many whittle this already-short list down to Clos des Chênes. Huber’s holdings here are minuscule—he only farms 0.18 hectares of 66-year-old vines—but they’re situated on the most desirable part of the slope. In the winery, he destems completely and his grapes slowly ferment in concrete vessels after a brief cold maceration. The resulting wine is then transferred into French barrels, 30% new, for 14 months. It is bottled without filtration.
The golden rule for any youthful vintage of Huber-Verdereau’s “Clos des Chênes” is that patience is a virtue: A minimum of 2-3 years in the cellar is preferred but if consuming now, a decant of no less than 90 minutes is required! As always, this is lush, hedonistic, ultra-pure Burgundy that will make lovers of high-end Chambolle and culty Sonoma Coast Pinot weak in the knees. Its many dark-fruited layers (plush black cherry, spiced plum, black raspberry) wash over the palate with great energy and concentration, only refusing to relent some 20+ seconds later alongside a crushed-mineral crescendo. This only further speaks to its aging ability. Make sure you’re properly prepared for this one because it’s a regal, full-throttle experience from start to finish. Cheers!
