Description
Domaine Josmeyer, Grand Cru “Brand” Riesling
The 58-hectare, built-from-granite Grand Cru vineyard of Brand is as historic as it is revered, and it all starts with the ancient legend that fuels it. Here’s a summation from another biodynamic Alsatian superstar, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht:
“The name Brand [“fire” in German] has long appeared in the town archives of Turckheim, a reminder that in its history this part of the hill was eroded by fire. Legend has it that the sun fought a dragon in this Grand Cru vineyard. The dragon was vanquished and obliged to withdraw into a dark cavern under the Brand, responsible for the characteristic “warmth” of this terroir’s soil.”
Within Grand Cru Brand, Josmeyer owns three tiny Riesling parcels amounting to .75 hectares, so quantities are always minuscule. In 2018, their biodynamic grapes were hand-picked with extreme levels of ripeness and pneumatically pressed over seven hours. Fermentation to dryness occurred in antique, century-old casks and after maturing on fine lees for 8-10 months, the wine was bottled without filtration. Although Josmeyer typically calls the palate of this wine “vertical,” I’m more inclined to go horizontal in the sunny/hot 2018 vintage. This is broad and rich and expansive, practically oozing with deep citrus and orchard fruits. Hints of pineapple, acacia honey, wild shrubs, and mango fill out the finish alongside pulverized granite and smoke. Decant for 30 minutes and serve in large stems. Squirrel your others away for 10-20 years.
