Description
Domaine Louis Magnin, Arbin Mondeuse
After three sellout offers of Louis Magnin’s “Tout un Monde,” I think it’s safe to say that we have ourselves a rabid cult following, and today we’re going to see just how deep the rabbit hole goes. This is Magnin’s 2014 Arbin, yet, unlike his “prestige” wine, it doesn’t come from century-old vines or have a powerfully robust profile—nor does it cost $65! You would think more affordability would equal more availability, but that’s certainly not the case today: Despite us ripping every last bottle of this artisanal alpine red from the importer’s clutches, we came away with fewer than 20 cases.
But remember, although today’s Arbin Monduese is brethren to Magnin’s “Tout un Monde,” it is by no means similar in style: This is a low-alcohol, high-impact Mondeuse that fuses a finely crushed mineral imprint with refreshing alpine savor. It’s highly addicting, invigorating, and pedigreed all in one, a combination few winemakers in France have managed to unlock. Accordingly, there’s a reason Bettane & Desseauve labeled Domaine Louis Magnin one of “the world’s greatest wines”—natural farming, old-school winemaking, and an exceedingly long aging regimen before release makes them utterly hypnotizing experiences. At this point, those demanding to taste Magnin rouge for the very first time outnumber the people who have, and that’s a scenario destined for pandemonium so we’ll do our best to continue rolling out these limited gems whenever possible. As for now, we must cap purchases at six bottles per person.
Founded by namesake Louis Magnin in the late 1800s, today the estate is run by his grandson, also named Louis, and his wife Béatrice, in the famed Arbin cru of Savoie. In a refreshing role reversal, you’ll find Louis buried in the cellar and Béatrice actively tending to their eight hectares of vines who was comically quoted in a GuildSomm article saying, “Better my husband stays in the winery, where he just watches and doesn’t touch anything.” Land before wine has always been the working philosophy here which is why they farm their precious Mondeuse trunks 100% organically with biodynamic practices.
When it comes time for harvest, yields for today’s Arbin are always kept low: just 35hl/ha, right in line with Grand Cru Burgundy! The grapes are picked by hand, de-stemmed, and transferred into stainless steel vats. After a multi-week indigenous fermentation, the wine continues maturing for 12 months in stainless vessels, with a small portion in old barrels. They then allow it to mature in bottle for several years before release.
Wow, this is delicious right now. Seven years in and we’ve got a highly perfumed, deeply savory, ethereal red that goes down frighteningly quick. But I urge you to be patient—this isn’t a cheap wine, after all, and it will only gain profundity as hours two and three pass by. Aromatics of crushed boysenberry, wild plums, cherry skin, cranberry, and dried rose petal funnel out, followed by cracked pepper, smoke, wet rock, mountain herbs, and twists of citrus peel and spice. On the palate, the unmistakable sauvage component come alive with savory secondaries emerging behind a playful layer of juicy, ed-black mountain fruits. Remember, Mondeuse is the alpine cousin of Northern Rhône Syrah—literally, in the sense that DNA analysis has linked it to Syrah and figuratively because it’s been cultivated in the mountainous region of Savoie for centuries. Meaning, there’s a lot to love here for Savoie sluggers, Rhône fanatics, and everyone in between. Enjoy now and over the next five years. Cheers!
