Description
Domaine Michel Sarrazin, Givry Premier Cru “Champ Lalot”
Brothers Guy and Jean-Yves Sarrazin, who’ve run their tiny family domaine since the 1990s, have consistently stunned us with their opulent, modestly priced Burgundies. Even before my visit to their estate several years ago—which undoubtedly sealed the deal—I was consistently blown away by the quality/price ratio of everything they make. And at the top of the list lies a small trove of Premier Crus, like today’s “Champ Lalot” from Givry.
If you drive about 20 minutes south of Burgundy’s most famous red wine villages within the Côte de Beaune (Volnay and Pommard), you will arrive in the Côte Chalonnaise. Although a different sub-region, we’re still very much in Burgundy, and it feels like it, too: The landscape is dotted with old sloping vineyards, maintained by many small family producers. Recently, the Côte Chalonnaise has seen a tremendous resurgence of quality from the new generation of winegrowers. These impassioned vignerons are now tending to old vineyards with care and making cleaner wines with less funk/rusticity, i.e. superb wines. Accordingly, there are hidden gems galore to discover here, and Givry seems to be leading the way with its tremendous Pinot Noir values.
“Champ Lalot” is one of Givry’s top vineyards, and within the last decade, a special section of this vineyard was elevated to Premier Cru status. That east-facing, higher-elevated section is where you’ll find Sarrazin’s 30-year-old vines. Fermentation occurs spontaneously in stainless steel tanks and no less than 12 months of aging is carried out in premium François Frères oak barrels, roughly 50% new. The wine is always bottled unfined and filtered.
Sarrazin’s “Champ Lalot” in 2019 delivers deep complexity, plush dark fruit, and compact minerality, a combination that feels as if it were from one of the Premier Crus of the Côte d’Or. There is a marvelous richness and texture on the palate that will keep lovers of opulent red Burgundy occupied for hours on end. Generous oak spices fill the senses alongside ripe plum boysenberry, black cherry liqueur, candied violets, and licorice. It is a hedonistic Pinot Noir, to be sure! Enjoy now and over the next 5-7 years.
