Description
Domaine Saint-Germain, Persan “Le Du Princens”
This is an easy one: We’ve got a unique native red very few of us get to try (Persan), from a region (Savoie) all of us are obsessed with. And the wine is affordable, too, which is more than this intrepid wine geek could ask for!
As climate change has continued to expand the world’s grape-growing horizons, regions once considered “marginal” are no longer so, and the resultant wines reflect that. It’s not that the reds of Savoie have become extracted, alcohol-rich behemoths—far from it—but they have taken on new dimensions. Wines that may have once been a little austere have added the perfect amount of weight and accessibility, without losing the energy and minerality that is central to their appeal. In short, it’s a great time to drink wine from the Savoie, red and white both, and in today’s Persan from Domaine Saint-Germain we get a one-stop master class from one of the region’s most respected organic growers. Whether it’s your first Persan or not, it’s guaranteed to send you down a rabbit hole. Combining the bright, juicy fruit of Cru Beaujolais with the dark spice and mineral backbone of Northern Rhône Syrah, this nervy mountain red might well become your new obsession—given how little Persan there is in the world, however, you might consider grabbing a handful today.
Just how little Persan are we talking about? According to Raphaël Saint-Germain, the dynamic proprietor of Domaine Saint-Germain, roughly 15 hectares of Persan vines remain in the Savoie—as in, the entire Savoie. Saint-Germain, a champion of the indigenous varieties of the region, has less than a hectare of Persan himself, part of an estate that spans 12 hectares in total. The domaine, founded by Raphaël and his brother, Etienne, in 1999, faces the Alps and sit in the shadow of the Arclusaz Mountains in the famed Combe de Savoie—a broad, glacial valley wherein the southerly exposures of the vineyards helps ensure ripeness in an otherwise cold mountain climate. Located in the village of Saint-Pierre d’Albigny, which sits right next door to the well-known cru village of Saint-Jean-de-la-Porte, the Saint-Germain vineyards contain the full complement of native Savoie varieties—not just well-known grapes like Jacquère, Altesse, and Mondeuse but also Douce Noir, Persan, Mondeuse Blanche, and Verdesse.
In soils of Jurassic limestone, marl, and pebbly scree washed down from the Massif des Bauges above, Persan develops some kindred qualities to Mondeuse, although, unlike Mondeuse, its genetic history remains a little murky. A variety of factors contributed to Persan all but disappearing from the area (phylloxera included), but Raphaël has led the charge to revive its fortunes. Above all else, he is a passionate viticulturist: He received organic certification for the estate’s vineyards in 2012 and has become something of an international ambassador for Savoie wine. Much like the region itself, this wine is one I cannot wait to get back to—it’s a bottle that disappears in what seems like an instant!
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Fermented and aged in stainless steel, this ’19 has shed some of its youthful rawness and displays a seamless mix of crushed-rock minerality, mountain florals, and dark fruit. Like a lot of Savoie reds, its inky color might suggest a more full-bodied wine, when in fact it’s a medium-bodied red with a kind of spring-loaded feel to it. The fruit sensations include black raspberry, candied blueberry, and blackcurrant, which are intertwined with deeply savory notes of ground coffee, black pepper, violets, and roasted meat. It has a plump, round feel on the palate but also a buoyancy—the acidity offers plenty of lift and energy without being sour or puckering at all. You’re left with this pleasing, palate-coating sensation and the lingering taste of wild berries and smoky earth. Decant it about 30 minutes before serving in Burgundy stems at 60 degrees and you’ve got a versatile red that will carry you through an array of gutsy fall and winter meals. Obviously, I’m inclined to suggest something “Alpine” in nature, like fondue or tartiflette—i.e. something you might find yourself eating during a break from skiing in Val d’Isère or Chamonix—but a grilled steak or burger would do just fine, too. This wine is going to charm your socks off either way—enjoy!
