Description
Easkoot, “Chileno Valley Vineyard” Pinot Noir
While it remains true that a gorgeously refined Chambolle-Musigny is among wine’s greatest pleasures, I can’t help but stir controversy when Easkoot makes its once-per-annum appearance: Given the choice between their “Chileno Valley” Pinot Noir and an $80 Chambolle, my money’s going towards two bottles of Easkoot.
In just a handful of vintages, these hauntingly aromatic and sublimely textured Pinot Noirs have rocked the scene and tacitly called upon elite Burgundy to reevaluate their pricing model. For $39, they seem to pack in everything: a devout commitment to sustainable farming, site-specific bottlings, minimalist winemaking, and some of the finest oak barrels on the market. It’s borderline irresponsible to miss any vintage of Easkoot’s small-batch Pinots, but ignoring this 2018 should be a flat-out crime. This bottling is softer, purer, and more ethereal than previous releases, making it not just a worthy competitor to Chambolle but the clear victor in many instances. At this price, few Pinot Noirs in the world can evoke as much soul and nuance as Easkoot. That said, generally no more than seven barrels are produced each year, so best of luck tracking it down after today’s offer expires!
Captain Alfred Derby Easkoot. What a name, what a pioneer. It was this man who was christened as Marin County’s first land surveyor in the 1800s, and today’s eponymous label is a deferential nod. Easkoot Cellars’ inaugural vintage came in 2009 and over the past decade, the sole focus has been on seeking out prime vineyards along the coast and crafting small-batch, parcel-designated wines.
Planted over 30 years ago, “Chileno Valley Vineyard” is a top-performing, 34-acre site that’s tended by dyed-in-the-wool farmer Mark Pasternak. Nestled deep in the hills of Marin County and wedged between the Pacific Ocean and San Pablo Bay, this is a cool, late-ripening site that produces structured and beautifully balanced Pinot Noir from Dijon and Pommard clones. You won’t find overly ripe, high alcohol wines here—and that’s especially true for a minimalist producer like Easkoot in the 2018 vintage.
After a meticulous hand harvest, the Pinot is trucked to the cellar where they slowly ferment, 20% whole cluster, on indigenous yeasts. The resulting wine is then transferred into neutral French oak barrels from Marcel Cadet, which are coopered from 36-month seasoned wood. After maturing for 12-15 months in these barrels, the wines are bottled and laid down for further rest before release.
Easkoot’s 2018 release is freakishly good. While I savored a glass, my mind was spinning in all sorts of directions. It had Chambolle polish, Willamette purity, Central Otago concentration, Sonoma Valley’s deep cherry-kola nut combo; it had it all! The medium-bodied palate is über-soft and elegant with bright, lifted flavors of fresh rose and violet, crushed black raspberry, moss, roasted plum compote, licorice, hints of baking spice, and a light backbone of crushed stone. Enjoy in large Burgundy stems just under 60 degrees and stash away your other bottles for consumption over the next three years to experience even more savory textures and nuanced complexities. Cheers!
