Description
Edmond Cornu & Fils, Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru
Let’s get right to it today: This is one of the greatest red Burgundy values you’ll ever see. Yes, ever. It comes from the kind of family-run, farmstead domaine that defines—and distinguishes—Burgundy. I am a big fan of Edmond Cornu: If you want to experience the most traditionally styled expressions of Burgundy Pinot Noir, this is the place to look, but this Corton-Bressandes is really something special.
Not only is it a minuscule-production Grand Cru for a hair over $100, which is practically unheard-of these days, but it’s a wine with many more glorious years ahead of it, especially around its 10th birthday. As I’ve said before, the top bottlings from Cornu are like hibernating bears, but both the domaine itself and its importer, Neal Rosenthal, conspire to hold these wines back longer than just about anyone else before releasing them in our market. So, while many other Burgundians have already sold through their Grand Crus from 2017, we can still put our hands on this maturing, mesmerizing ’13. We have a very small amount to share, enough for up to four bottles per customer, and just to be crystal clear about this: You couldn’t make a more Grand Cru Burgundy purchase than this one.
Cornu’s parcel of Les Bressandes is planted to vines averaging 30 years of age, and their vinification process is straightforward, starting with hand-harvested, 100% de-stemmed fruit fermented on native yeasts and continuing with 12-15 months’ aging in French oak barriques (30% new in this case). In the glass, it’s a medium garnet-red with pink and orange reflections, and once exposed to some air, its aromas jump from the glass: red and black cherry, red currant, dried orange peel, rose petals, hibiscus, dried mushrooms, warm spices, and a touch of leather carry through to the medium-bodied palate, which should continue adding flesh with time and spill over into ‘medium-plus’ territory. It’s got the kind of perfume that’ll keep you returning to swirl and sniff over and over, so take it slow and watch it unfold over the course of a great meal. If enjoying a bottle now, decant it 60 minutes before serving in Burgundy stems at 60-65 degrees, and pair it with something that won’t mask its detail and finesse. I’ll be watching this gorgeous, haunting red for many years to come. Enjoy!
