Description
Fio, “Teppo” Riesling
One great way to find out about new projects in the ever-changing world of wine is to get the “insider scoop” from some of our tried-and-true producers, and then to jump in on the action before the secret’s out. So when Michael Moosbrugger of the acclaimed Schloss Gobelsburg in Kamptal said that there’s a “crazy guy in the Mosel” making some outstanding Rieslings, and renowned publication Gault & Millau recently crowned Fio the “Discovery of the Year,” of course it piqued our interest!
Factor in that it’s a joint venture with Portuguese wine superstar Dirk Niepoort, sourced from an estate-owned parcel of the famed Piesporter Goldtröpfchen vineyard, and that careful attention is given to every aspect of the winemaking process, and you have an enological grand slam! Now that you’re in the know, grab as many bottles as you can before this dry, ripe, and energetic 2018 Mosel Riesling is gone for good.
Lothar Kettern founded his eponymous estate in the 1950s, and his son Philipp took over as the lead winemaker in 2009 after completing his viticulture degree and apprenticeship in the Rheingau. Almost immediately, he worked to further improve his family’s already highly praised wines by following the principles of sustainability and organics in the vineyard. But he didn’t stop there. In Piesport, the area south of the Mosel River is primarily flatter and more fertile whereas north of the river is comprised of much steeper slopes with poorer soils. Despite being substantially more challenging to farm, these steeper vineyards—including the Goldtröpfchen Erste Lage (i.e. “Premier Cru”)—undoubtedly yield many of the region’s heralded wines. So, Philipp sold off most of his father’s old plots in order to buy smaller parcels here instead.
Then there’s Dirk Niepoort, who pioneered dry table wines in the Douro where fortified sweet wines (Port) reign supreme. He and his son Daniel had been looking to start a project in the Mosel when they met Philipp. What united the two families was the desire to craft wines in a slower, more traditional fashion. They believe that time is the key element that’s missing from many of today’s rushed-to-the-market wines. Instead, they choose to harvest by hand, ferment using ambient yeasts in old 1000L fuders, and allow the wine to rest on its lees for a full year or more—all of which take time. “Teppo” or “tempo” is tasted regularly in barrel and, only when deemed ready, is bottled for release with minimal sulfur. Every detail gets the attention it deserves, even down to the playful label which was created by Portuguese graphic artist João Noutel.
The 2018 Teppo shines a radiant straw at its core with green reflections at the rim. Rich and intense aromas of ripe Golden Delicious apple, lemon, sour peach, honeysuckle, and smoke waft out of the glass immediately after pouring. Though there are a few grams of residual sugar present, it takes the backseat by simply rounding out the crystalline acidity and characteristic minerality. Ripe flavors of yellow apple, pear, white peach, and saffron are further accentuated by the medium body and creamy mouthfeel imparted by the long lees aging. Though it will become more savory with a couple of years in the bottle, I don’t see any reason to wait. Pop open a couple and serve in all-purpose stems at 45-50°F alongside a flavorful dish that can match its exuberance, like this spicy tuna roll from Chef Jet Tila.
