Description
Francis Boulard & Fille, “Petraea II”
Welcome to the newest installment in my Friday Night Series, where a Champagne needs to be more than outstanding—it must be rare and truly special, with a compelling story to boot. Tonight, I’ve located another perfect candidate: Delphine Boulard’s scarcely encountered “Petraea.” With just three hectares of vines to work from, her entire range is limited, but tonight’s cuvée has proven to be the most elusive. Candidly speaking, this is the second time I’ve ever tried it—the other was three years ago in Reims—so I’m absolutely thrilled to share these 50 bottles with you all.
Specifically, this is “Petraea II,” a blend of single-vineyard, Certified Organic Pinot Noir from the phenomenal 2012 and 2013 vintages. These two base wines were fused together in one large cask made from sessile oak (its Latin name is Quercus petraea) before 6+ years of sur lie maturation. Although bottled as a Brut Nature, this breathtaking, terroir-focused masterpiece is loaded to the brim with rich pastry and orchard fruits. It’s remarkably gastronomic, vinous, and savory; one of my favorite finds of the year. No more than three bottles per person.
NOTE: I also have 11 bottles of Boulard’s 2012 “Les Rachais,” a single-vineyard Chardonnay that many consider to be the estate’s most expressive cuvée. Secure one bottle here.
Francis Boulard is the son of Champagne producer Raymond Boulard. He is a rambunctious and energetic powerhouse of a man who embraces an eco-friendly, organic/biodynamic approach in the vineyard—so much so that in the mid-2000s, his zeal regarding this subject drove a wedge between him and his siblings. Champagne, with its severe climate, is probably one of the most challenging viticultural areas in which to work naturally, so it’s no wonder his family resisted. Undeterred, Francis walked away from the family estate with a mere three hectares of vines and started a brand new, 100% chemical-free estate of his own with the help of his daughter (fille), Delphine. Despite the daunting challenge, Francis and Delphine’s creations quickly became some of the most critically acclaimed and sought-after Champagne imported into the US. Francis retired in 2016, officially putting Delphine in total control, and she’s done a spectacular job not just preserving but further expanding upon his vision.
The origin story of Boulard’s “Petraea” cuvée dates back to the 1990s when the family began a perpetual reserve. This “solera” of sorts is a single vessel holding a multitude of vintages, and when wine is removed, the vessel is topped up with the current vintage’s base wine. In 2007, Francis and Delphine stopped drawing from this perpetual reserve and waited until they were Certified Organic, which came in 2012. Upon that harvest, they filled a 25HL cask, made from sessile oak, with still Pinot Noir and waited until the following vintage. Once the 2013 Pinot Noir base wine had finished, the Boulards then drew off half of the cask holding the 2012 and re-filled it with the 2013. After allowing both vintages to marry over several months, the blended wine was transferred into bottle unfined and unfiltered where it aged over six years before disgorgement. A cork was applied without dosage, thereby making it a “Brut Nature.”
Boulard’s Pinot Noir for “Patraea II” comes from 60+-year-old trunks in the single vineyard of “Les Murtet” in the village of Cormicy. Located within the larger sub-region of Massif de Saint-Thierry (northwest of Reims), Cormicy is the northernmost growing zone in Champagne so, on the palate, this wine possesses formidable acidity and a pronounced austere/mineral core. Still, there is no shortage of richness and body due to Francis’ healthy organic vines, late harvesting methods (à la Egly-Ouriet), and extended aging in both oak and bottle.
In the glass, Boulard’s 2012/13 “Patraea II” imparts a gorgeous golden-yellow hue and a soft, finely beaded mousse that makes me wonder if this was purposely bottled with less carbonation. These “gastronomic” styles are the champagnes I absolutely adore: this fills the senses with baritone notes of bruised apricot, baked apple, Rainier cherry, and blood orange peel, along with acacia honey, crushed stone, toasted almonds, brioche, and apple blossoms. The palate is full and rich, boasting ripe flavors of orchard fruits that will make you second guess its lack of dosage. This fascinating bottle of Champagne practically begs to be consumed slowly—for me, the more carbonation it shed, the more complex and nuanced it became. Enjoy!
