Description
Fratelli Alessandria, Verduno Pelaverga “Speziale”
There are a lot of retailers out there who specialize in so-called “fine and rare” wines. Yet while this Verduno Pelaverga from Alessandria is both fine and rare, you’re not likely to see it listed alongside the three- and four-figure blue chips that populate the fanciest cellars. We’ve gotten to the point where we’ll buy as much of this wine as we can get, sight-unseen, when a new vintage is released—because we know that it is (a) consistently and uniquely delicious; (b) the heart’s desire of any savvy restaurant sommelier, and therefore harder and harder to get; and (c) a remarkable bargain. Remember: There are only about 20 hectares of Pelaverga grapevines in existence and maybe a dozen producers of Pelaverga wine, most of them concentrated in the variety’s namesake village of Verduno. “Speziale” is the standard-bearer. Given that we’ve offered this rarest of gems for six straight vintages, does anything more need to be said? There is nothing else in wine like this, and it costs next to nothing!
In addition to the elegant Barolo wines they make from their vineyards in Verduno (one of the 11 communes in the Barolo DOCG), Alessandria has something truly special here. Verduno Pelaverga is a name for the piccolo strain of this variety, which is confined to Verduno and the neighboring villages of Roddi and La Morra. While it often factored into regional blends in the past, it has developed a cult following as a varietal wine, thanks not only to Alessandria’s excellent version but to bottlings from neighbors such as G.B. Burlotto and Castello di Verduno. This trio of producers has raised the profile of Verduno over the years, as their finessed, high-toned Barolo wines have garnered ever-greater critical acclaim; Pelaverga has played its part, too, as it is precisely the kind of delicious, affordable, singular wine sommeliers are keen to showcase on their lists.
Essentially an extension of the La Morra vineyard area, with similar southeastern/southern exposures in the best sites, Verduno’s vineyards are headlined by the iconic “Monvigliero” cru, source of some of truly legendary Barolo bottlings (including one from Alessandria). In total, the Alessandrias farm just 12 hectares of vineyards, most of them in Verduno, as part of an estate that has been in the family since 1870. These days it’s Gian Battista Alessandria running the show, with help from his wife, Flavia, brother, Alessandro, and son, Vittore.
“Speziale” comes from an assortment of small, high-elevation vineyard sites in the sandy, clay/limestone soils of Verduno. It was fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks, followed by a few months in bottle, resulting in a red of exuberant freshness and an intriguingly smoky soil component. In the glass, it’s a medium ruby red with pink highlights, with perfumed aromas of small red berries, rhubarb, rose hips, pink peppercorn, underbrush, leather, and dried flowers. It is medium-bodied, with firm, fine-grained tannins and lots of crunchy, juicy fruit. Although decanting certainly wouldn’t hurt, it’s not necessary, and I’d suggest a serving temperature closer to 55-60 degrees. Pour some in Burgundy stems with a platter of cured meats or maybe the attached cranberry stuffed pork chops. Or, just enjoy it on its own. Local legend in Verduno is that Pelaverga is an aphrodisiac, so really any occasion will do. Enjoy!
