Description
Fratelli Alessandria, Verduno Pelaverga “Speziale”
Just as surely as birds will fly south for the winter, we’ll be first in line for the release of Alessandria’s Verduno Pelaverga. It has become an annual ritual for us at SommSelect, and we’ve got to be quick because there’s not very much and a lot of others want some. But we’ve been faithful, as have our subscribers, so a fresh batch of Alessandria’s 2020 is ours for the raiding.
The Pelaverga grape produces one of the most beguilingly aromatic red wines in Italy, and also happens to be one of the rarest native varieties around: There are only about 20 hectares of Pelaverga vines in existence and maybe a dozen producers of Pelaverga wine, most of them concentrated in the variety’s namesake village of Verduno. So, of course we join the scrum every year for some “Speziale.” In addition to the great Barolo wines they make from their vineyards in Verduno (one of the 11 communes in the Barolo DOCG), Alessandria has something truly special here: This brambly, spicy red is one of a kind. It is also a total joy to drink and a chart-topping value. It will remind you of reds from Jura in France, the Burgenland in Austria, and numerous cool-climate spots elsewhere in northern Italy, but more importantly, it will surprise you with its complexity. Soft tannins, bright fruit, and effortless charm are its calling cards, so grab as much as you can before it disappears for another year!
Verduno Pelaverga is a name for the piccolo strain of this variety, which is confined to Verduno and the neighboring villages of Roddi and La Morra. While it often factored into regional blends in the past, it has developed a cult following as a varietal wine, thanks not only to Alessandria’s excellent version but to bottlings from neighbors such as G.B. Burlotto and Castello di Verduno. This trio of producers has raised the profile of Verduno over the years, as their finessed, high-toned Barolo wines have garnered ever-greater critical acclaim; Pelaverga has played its part, too, as it is precisely the kind of delicious, affordable, singular wine sommeliers are keen to showcase on their lists.
Essentially an extension of the La Morra vineyard area, with similar southeastern/southern exposures in the best sites, Verduno’s vineyards are headlined by the iconic “Monvigliero” cru, source of some of truly legendary Barolo bottlings (including one from Alessandria). In total, the Alessandrias farm just 12 hectares of vineyards, most of them in Verduno, as part of an estate that has been in the family since 1870. These days it’s Gian Battista Alessandria running the show, with help from his wife, Flavia, brother, Alessandro, and son, Vittore.
The 2020 “Speziale” comes from an assortment of small, high-elevation vineyard sites in the sandy, clay/limestone soils of Verduno. It was fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks, followed by a few months in bottle, resulting in a red of exuberant freshness and an intriguingly smoky soil component. In the glass, it’s a medium ruby red with pink highlights, with perfumed aromas of small red berries, rhubarb, rosehips, pink peppercorn, underbrush, leather, and dried flowers. It is medium-bodied, with firm, fine-grained tannins and lots of crunchy, juicy fruit. Although decanting certainly wouldn’t hurt, it’s not necessary, and I’d suggest a serving temperature closer to 55-60 degrees. Pour some in Burgundy stems with a platter of cured meats or maybe the attached cranberry stuffed pork chops. Or, just enjoy it on its own. Local legend in Verduno is that Pelaverga is an aphrodisiac, so really any occasion will do. Enjoy!
