Description
Granja Nuestra Senora de Remelluri ‘Remelluri’ Gran Reserva
Sourced from heritage growers in La Rioja Alta, this is a stylish, ‘modern’ Rioja (which isn’t to say it’s all about oak). It offers a focused snapshot of the Rioja ‘terruño.’
Remelluri is in Rioja Alta, arguably the most important sub-region in the Rioja DO. The vineyards of Remelluri are scattered across the Sierra de Toloño mountains, in a pocket of land that sees its fair share of rainfall. The influence of the Atlantic Ocean allows lower temperatures than neighboring regions, and hot days are balanced by cool nights to keep grapes from becoming overripe. Rioja Alta, as its name suggests, boasts the highest-altitude vineyards in Rioja, resulting in freshness, acidity and lower alcohol levels. Tempranillo is the major player, but Garnacha Tinto, Graciano and Viura thrive here as well.
The Remelluri family has been producing wines since 1967, and since the beginning has been devoted to recovering and restoring old vineyards on the estate. Started by Telmo’s father as more of a hobby, the wines of Remelluri have evolved into some of the most esteemed examples of Rioja on the market. Lindes de Remelluri is a fairly recent project of Telmo’s, showcasing grapes grown by local farmers (under Telmo’s supervision) in the neighboring towns of Labastida and San Vicente. The idea is to make wines that highlight the nuances of each village, a methodology we find in regions like Burgundy, and a respect for terruño Telmo would like to see more of in Rioja. The “San Vicente” bottling is sourced from vineyards from eight growers in and around San Vicente—a marginally hotter, drier climate than both Labastida and Remelluri and known for darker, more concentrated wines from clay and limestone soils. Altitudes here are not insignificant (about 500 meters), and vines are farmed organically, with an average age of about 40 years.
This bottling is already drinking very well, especially after a 30-60 minute decant. Poured into large Burgundy stems, it displays a bright and clear crimson robe, with a classic nose of red plums and berries, coffee, tobacco leaf, and olive. On the palate, the wine is bursting with rich, round, mouthfilling red fruits, chocolatey oak, and silky, ripe tannins. Firm acidity balances the open, fine-grained texture, hinting at licorice, graphite, and leather, all leading to a long, elegant finish. It’s harmonious and delicious, and will be stunning for years to come.
