Description
Joseph Jewell, “Eel River Valley” Pinot Noir
Although nobody’s ever known me to turn down a perfectly sculpted bottle of red Burgundy, I can’t help but think times are changing when a Joseph Jewell Pinot Noir slides in front of me. High-grade, artisanal Pinot Noir has soared well beyond the confines of France, developed in inconceivable but viticulturally fascinating regions like Humboldt County, and stunned the fabled competition. But what about Burgundy’s terroir, centuries-deep lineage, distinct microclimates, and the breathtaking wines yielded from them? All I’ll say is put today’s organically sourced “Eel River Valley” next to some expensive village-level Burgundies (and Oregon’s finest, while you’re at it) and see which one is drained first.
I can’t tell you how many trips I’ve taken up to Humboldt County, but I can say a secret wine scene is buzzing throughout its vast expanse of towering Redwoods and stretching pastures. With 1,000+ farmsteads claiming stake to the county’s 2.3 million acres of land, and a charm and climate akin to Burgundy, you’d think this would be a wine epicenter. But in reality, just ~150 acres are planted to wine grapes. Accordingly, every row is respectfully farmed and quietly jostled over, albeit on an infinitely smaller scale than Burgundy. I always return from these visits re-energized, and with further proof that Joseph Jewell is right up there with the world’s top Pinot Noir producers.
By way of introduction, Joseph Jewell isn’t one person but two: Micah Joseph Wirth and Adrian Jewell Manspeaker. Not only do they have great names, but they’re also great guys who’ve found a couple of magical vineyards to work with amid the redwood groves of Humboldt. Their 2018 “Eel River Valley” is an expert blend of five organically farmed Humboldt vineyards: predominantly “Ryan” and “Miller Creek” with roughly a quarter coming from “Elk Prairie,” “Alderpoint,” and “Fruitland Ridge.” All are located around the Eel River which has (1) immediate access to cool Pacific air/fog, (2) well-drained, mineral-rich soils, (3) dramatic diurnal temperature swings, and (4) a longer, cooler harvest season than many celebrated Pinot Noir regions further south.
In 2018, Joseph Jewell’s small team hand-harvested these grapes in late September and well into October at impressively ripe levels for the region. The de-stemmed grapes fermented on their native yeasts for two weeks with three daily punch-downs. The resulting wine aged for 11 months in 29 barrels of French origin, about six of which were new, before an unfined and unfiltered bottling.
Joseph Jewell’s bottlings have the concentration of an elegant Russian River Pinot and the harmonious mouthfeel and elegance of decadent Chambolle-Musigny—their 2018 “Eel River Valley” is no exemption. The nose erupts with a supple outpouring of juicy, high-toned perfumes like black raspberry liqueur, red plum, licorice, Bing cherry, kola nut, forest floor, crushed stones, damp soil, rose petal, loose teal, clove, and a hint of vanilla bean. Lush, edge-free berry fruit and a fine mineral imprint expand to reach every taste bud on the medium-plus-bodied palate, resulting in a vibrant, long-lasting finish. You can certainly expect this bottle to age gracefully over the next 3-5 years, but I find myself struggling with “why” someone would wait that long. This is firing on all cylinders right now. It’s juicy, polished, nervy, and subtly complex—a perfect cooler-climate Pinot Noir that is bound to impress almost anyone who pulls the cork, from first-timer to seasoned Burgundy connoisseur. Decant for 15-30 minutes and serve in large Burgundy stems. Cheers!
