Description
Keuka Lake Vineyards, Vignoles
As its name suggests, this estate is situated on Keuka Lake, with vineyards wrapping around the southern end of the lake in Hammondsport. They sustainably farm about 35 acres of vineyards in soils they describe as “glacial till” (a rocky mixture of sand, silt, shale, and gravel), sourcing this Vignoles from three distinct estate parcels: “Turkey Run,” “Silvernail,” and “The Garden.”
Owner and vineyard manager Mel Goldman fell in love with the Finger Lakes during a camping trip in 1992, and, after a career in agricultural and industrial development, he took an early retirement and moved to the region in 1997. He established Keuka Lake Vineyards around a few acres of vines that once belonged to the Taylor Wine Co., a historic producer in the region. The first wines under the Keuka Lake Vineyards label were released in 2005.
Along with stalwarts such as Riesling and Pinot Noir, Keuka Lake is perhaps the benchmark producer of Vignoles, an obscure hybrid variety which has maintained a stronghold in the Finger Lakes (there are about 100 acres planted in total). The small-berried, thick-skinned white can be fashioned into both sweet and dry wines and is known for its exotic aromas and viscous texture. It undergoes a cool, slow fermentation on ambient yeasts in stainless steel.
There are some kindred qualities to Viognier in this golden hued, textured white, with notes of white and yellow wildflowers, orange oil, nectarine, melon, and pekoe tea. It is palate-coating but finishes resolutely dry, with a long, lingering finish. Pair with lobster pasta, sole meunière, or some ceviche.
