Description
Kühling-Gillot, Chardonnay “Réserve”
It shouldn’t come as a shock that Burgundy’s dominance in the pantheon of world-class Chardonnay is measured by prohibitive pricing. Forget that the finest cuvées are only accessible to the one percenters—even the baseline for a solid “village” Puligny is nearing $100! While this can be discouraging, I’ve kept my finger on Chardonnay’s pulse for many years now and I’m prepared to put the following on record: When considering your dollar, Burgundy is no longer the clear frontrunner for world-best Chardonnay. Select producers in Oregon, California, and the antipodes are bottling convincing wines that have outclassed white Burgundy. Ask any established, in-the-know sommelier and they, too, will buzz about how thrillingly complex and delicious they can be. Today, I’m introducing a newer contender: Germany.
I personally visited last May, and after tasting a dizzying number of Chardonnays, I snuck away feeling as if I’d been privy to the world’s greatest secret. The sheer quality here is outstanding and arguably nonpareil in the value department. They are wonderfully balanced and eerily Burgundian, yet they explode with swells of acid that play into sneakily rich textures. After tasting Kühling-Gillot’s lineup in their polished cellar, I immediately made it my mission to get this wine in front of you, and here it is, eight months later. For $34, I cannot think of a biodynamic Burgundy that comes remotely close to this masterwork. Enjoy!
Carolin Spanier-Gillot and her husband Hans Olivier are a true power couple on the German wine scene, very much reminding me of Xavier and Julie Gonet-Médeville in Bordeaux. When Carolin and Olivier married in 2016, so were two of Rheinssen’s top Certified Biodynamic estates, Battenfeld-Spanier and Kühling-Gillot. Although a relative newcomer on the scene, Weingut Kühling-Gillot has taken Europe by storm, and my aim today is to transfer over some of that exciting buzz.
Kühling’s 11 hectares of naturally farmed vines are largely planted to Riesling, but they also have a few small pockets of Scheurebe, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay. Due to limited plantings, there’s never much of the latter to distribute, but once you’re lucky enough to taste one, you’ll find it has the polish and precision of a Lange & Söhne timepiece. It’s no surprise once touring their spotless and exquisite modern cellar!
Coming from 20-year-old vines, the pristine and later-harvested fruit for today’s 2021 “Réserve” was gently pressed before undergoing a slow, spontaneous fermentation in mostly used tonneaux. Upon completion, the resulting wine kept resting on its lees until bottling without filtration in May of 2022. All this combines for a Chardonnay of absolute purity and precision, which is why you’ll find the back label stating: “No Bullshit, Just Sulphites.”
Poured into Burgundy stems around 50-55 degrees (tasting a touch warmer is crucial), this reveals powerful aromas of ripe yellow apple, yellow peach, buttered corn, struck flint, toasted almond, stirred lees, white mushroom, lemon, and warm baking spices. It’s not as mineral as Burgundy, yet there it contains more acid and lift: imagine Côte de Beaune’s aromatics, Chablis’ verve, and Germany’s supple, mouthwatering feel, and you’ll be closing in on this wine’s identity. The palate is warm and silky with pronounced layers of yellow orchard fruits and gentle swells of nuttiness and smoke. Give it air, too, as I found my bottle changed drastically from hour one to hour three, and even into the following day. German Chardonnay is the future, plain and simple. Do not get left behind!
