Description
La Closerie des Eyrins, Margaux
While it’s long been customary for a top-vintage Bordeaux in the immediate vicinity of Châteaux Margaux and Palmer to cost a king’s ransom, La Closerie des Eyrins purposely goes against the grain. Their tantalizingly aromatic and indulgent gem is a rare, last-of-a-dying-breed Margaux that outperforms its humble price tag by a staggering margin.
Fifteen years ago, power couple Xavier and Julie Gonet-Médeville purchased the estate from Eric Grangerou, whose own family were cellarmasters at First Growth Margaux for three generations. The sale also included a tiny parcel twice-bordered by the vines of Château Margaux—with Château Palmer across the street—making this ground zero for some of the most cherished and expensive Cabernet Sauvignon on the planet. But even with this prime raw material and unrivaled pedigree, Eyrins still chooses to bottle affordable, world-class Bordeaux. That’s why this outstanding $50 cuvée always has us asking one question: Why spend more on Eyrins’ exorbitantly priced neighbors when this is as authentic and classy as 2018 Margaux gets? Should you really want to upset/stun the established order, we also recommend sneaking this into a blind-tasting populated with expensive Cabernets. We did, and it coolly outclassed a $250 Napa Cab. Enjoy!
With their hands in what seems like every shade and style of wine (sparkling, white, red, sweet), it’s safe to say husband and wife Xavier and Julie Gonet-Médeville have earned their stripes in the 21st century. After working under the direction of Julie’s parents for eight years, they ventured out on their own in 2005 and their conscientiously crafted wines have quickly become among the best of any producer, no matter the region. They are now the proud owners of a boutique Champagne House in Côte des Blancs; the inimitable Château Gilette in Sauternes; and today’s Château des Eyrins in Margaux.
Soils in Château des Eyrins’ vineyards are among the thinnest and most gravelly in all of Haut-Médoc, meaning their vines have deep-reaching roots—excellent for absorbing nutrients and groundwater. Grapes are harvested by hand and fermentation is carried out in stainless steel tanks with a three-week maceration. The blend is roughly 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot and the wine ages in 50% new French oak and 50% stainless steel for 18 months before the two are fused together. If you’ve previously purchased Eyrins’ pricier Grand Vin, you may be asking what’s the difference between the two: “Closerie des Eyrins” comes from their younger vines. Other than that, the blend, percentage of new oak, and aging regimen are virtually identical. This $50 Left Bank beauty is one of the top value investments of Bordeaux!
Although less brawny than its pricier “Grand Vin” brother, this 2018 “Closerie des Eyrins” rumbles across the palate with supple polish, dark-fruited savor, and remarkable poise. We were beaming upon tasting our sample: It erupted with bright notes of cassis, ripe cherry, roasted plum, and licorice, followed by cedar shavings, crushed graphite, tobacco leaf, freshly picked herbs, leather, wet gravel, and sweet baking spices. The medium-plus-bodied palate is balanced to perfection with soft, persistent tannins and a throughline of bright acidity. All this serves to enliven the plump berry core before finishing with a mélange of savory, herbal flavors. It starts hitting a beautiful stride after 30 minutes in a decanter, but if it’s a stylistically classic and mature Margaux you’re after, save a few bottles for beyond 2025. A promising future lies ahead!
