Description
La Closerie des Eyrins, Margaux
The village of Margaux, immortalized by its eponymous First Growth château, has historically crafted some of the most polished, perfumed, and indulgent “Left Bank” Bordeaux money can buy. For that reason, shelling out triple digits isn’t just common, it’s customary. That’s why the logic-bending value of La Closerie des Eyrins doesn’t just alter your perception of luxury Bordeaux, it leaves you asking one overarching question: Could this be the best $50-and-under Margaux in existence? We think so, and it’s not by chance either.
In 2008, power couple Xavier and Julie Gonet-Médeville purchased Château des Eyrins from a third-generation Château Margaux cellarmaster, with the sole mission of providing affordable, world-class Bordeaux. The sale came with deeply coveted raw material: 2.9 hectares spread out over three sites, the largest being a triangular parcel twice-bordered by Château Margaux real estate—with Château Palmer just across the street! What I’m getting at is Eyrins should be charging heaps more for this bonafide authentic, small-production Margaux label because this newly released 2017 is about as supple, perfumed, and elegant as the Left Bank gets. Missing out on this would be devastating for anyone who’s ever enjoyed a bottle of pedigreed Bordeaux. Invest in a case!
Not much older than myself, husband and wife Xavier and Julie are the owners of a boutique Champagne house in Côte des Blancs’ Les Mesnil; the inimitable Château Gilette in Sauternes; and today’s Château des Eyrins in Margaux, among others. Both worked under the direction of Julie’s parents for eight years until venturing out on their own in 2005. Now with ownership in what seems like every shade and style of wine (sparkling, white, red, sweet), they’ve quickly created a name for themselves. Though both of their families have rich histories in the business, Xavier and Julie’s focus on small-production, conscientiously-crafted wines are among the best of any “newcomer.”
Soils in Château des Eyrins’ vineyards are among the thinnest and most gravelly in all of Haut-Médoc, meaning their vines have deep-reaching roots—great for absorbing nutrients and groundwater. Grapes are harvested by hand and fermentation is carried out in stainless steel tanks with a three-week maceration. The blend is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot and the wine ages in 50% new French oak and 50% stainless steel for 18 months before the two are fused together. If you’ve previously purchased Eyrins’ Grand Vin, you may be asking what’s the difference between the two? “La Closerie des Eyrins” comes from their younger vines, but other than that, the blend, percentage of new oak, and aging regimen is almost identical. It’s essentially a “second wine,” except we consider it far too grand to label it as such.
What immediately stood out with this 2017 release was its elegance and perfume: This is not a dark, muscled, Pauillac-esque Bordeaux—this is graceful, soft-shouldered Margaux in all its glory! After a 30-minute decant, it rolls out of the glass with charming aromas of red plum, licorice, black cherry skin, baking spice, baked clay, blue fruit, pencil lead, and Rooibos tea. The palate is plush and soft with velvety tannins and a bright, churning core of ripe berry fruits that linger on a mineral-studded finish. It’s an absolute joy to drink already, but the true beauty won’t be revealed until its seventh or eighth birthday. Thankfully, given its low cost, you can afford to buy a few bottles guilt-free and track its evolution for many years to come. Cheers!
