Description
La Massa, Toscana Rosso
This may indeed be an “international” wine, one which contains a healthy percentage of Cabernet and bears the mark of a high-flying consultant from Bordeaux, but it is still a “Tuscan” wine first and foremost. Let’s be clear about that. The so-called “Super-Tuscans” aren’t meant to be imitations of wines from Bordeaux—the best of them show how well, if differently, the classic grapes of Bordeaux do in the Tuscan terroir. And while some parts of Tuscany more strongly resemble Bordeaux, La Massa in Chianti Classico is a long way away, both literally and figuratively.
There’s a long list of legendary wines from Chianti that contain Cabernet Sauvignon in some percentage (“Solaia,” “Tignanello,” and “Sammarco,” to name a few), and their greatness doesn’t derive from imitating Bordeaux. On the contrary, these wines show a more woodsy, mineral, savory side of the Cabernet grape, especially when it is blended with the local Sangiovese. There’s plenty of concentrated fruit and polish, yes, but what can I say, a great super-Tuscan just tastes Italian (it’s so much easier to experience than describe). What Giampaolo Motta of La Massa has pulled off with this well-priced, unassuming Toscana Rosso is extraordinary. I won’t beat around the bush: There’s more wine for the money here than I ever thought possible. The price is just nonsensical. I’m blown away, but I’m not surprised: La Massa is, and always has been, the real deal.
The value’s all the more astonishing when you consider the investments Motta has made at La Massa, beginning in the early 1990s. Nestled in the hills of Panzano in the heart of Chianti Classico, this estate is a true slice of paradiso, with vines covering a little over half the property; the remainder, low vegetation and trees. It’s been a far-reaching effort, and no part of his 45 hectares has been untouched in his attempt to revitalize these vineyards, which were first planted in the 15th century.
Motta’s main initiative was the replanting and training of the vines. Giampaolo increased the density to an incredible 6,250 plants per hectare, and turned to a spurred cordon system, which limited yields to less than a kilogram of grapes per vine. Sangiovese remains the primary grape here, and early releases were under the Chianti Classico rubric; later, as he better understood his terroir and what flourished in the complex soils of the Pesa Valley, other grapes were added and the Chianti designation was abandoned. Perhaps reflective of his training in Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Alicante Bouschet and Petit Verdot became a secondary focus, and have come to thrive in the southern exposures. Flying winemaker Stéphane Derenoncourt joined the project in 2008, bringing more Bordelais expertise to both the vineyard and the cellar.
Theirs has been a thoughtful and rigorous examination of the property, with a truly sustainable and holistic approach to the site. Detailed geological maps and the installation of numerous weather stations have helped fine-tune the cultivation and planting of grapes. Natural pest control methods have meant they’ve been able to forego artificial pesticides and increased vine health means less spraying. In the cellar, all of the work is hands-on and extremely detail oriented, from harvest to sorting and all the way through bottling. Fermentations are natural, taking place in French oak, and the wine stays in contact with the fine lees for almost a year. Frequent bâtonnage (lees-stirring) and extended élevage allow the wine to gain texture and build structure. A further 10 months in wood (20% new) brings the wine additional complexity and elegance. Their quest for perfection has yielded tangible and decidedly delicious results.
The 2018 Rosso is underpinned by Sangiovese (50%), bringing spicy red fruits and earth to the plush Bordeaux varieties. Cabernet Sauvignon (35%) adds a core of structure and dark fruits, while Merlot and a splash of Alicante Bouschet make up the last 15%. The deep, saturated robe gives way to a vivid crimson at the rim, yielding a nose of black and blue fruits. Plums, berries, and other black fruits dominate, with notes of baking spices, wild mushrooms, bay leaf, and fine tobacco providing lift. On the palate, rich, ripe fruits offer both freshness and a hint of confiture, with fleshy, mixed wild berries dominating, buoyed by cocoa and herbs, and supported with fine tannins. Smoky graphite, minerals, and juicy acidity frame the long finish. It’s beautifully balanced and harmonious with the structure and fresh fruit to easily age and evolve. Serve now at 60-65 degrees in Bordeaux stems, after a 30-minute decant, or sock some away to enjoy down the road. Either way, you can’t go wrong serving this gem with the attached recipe.
