Description
La Serena, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva “Gemini”
When I see a bottle of La Serena Brunello, the first word that comes to mind is “sleek.” Which is not to be confused with “slick.” Not only does La Serena practice impeccable organic farming, but its wines are also authentic expressions of Montalcino Sangiovese, albeit without any of the sharp edges the variety often displays. Tannins are well managed, oak is well-integrated, making for Brunello di Montalcino that is tantalizingly approachable when young but capable of aging for decades, too. These wines have terrific purity and no need for any excess makeup, especially when blessed with a generous vintage like 2015.
And somehow, despite consistent excellence (as critical praise confirms), the wines remain attractively priced. Today’s 2015 is La Serena’s tiny-production riserva bottling—just 700 cases are made for the entire Brunello-drinking world and we can only share six bottles per person, tops. When it comes to pedigreed labels, you won’t see a better price/quality ratio on a Brunello di Montalcino Riserva anytime soon. Maybe not ever. Act fast!
Back to the “sleek” thing for a second. Whether in our offers or elsewhere, you’re likely bombarded with comparisons of “traditional” and “modern” wines—and, for some traditionalists, sleek might sound like a dirty word. Let me be clear: What’s so appealing about the La Serena wines is that they combine the best features of both the traditional and the modern. They display great concentration of fruit but also the woodsy savor that distinguishes Sangiovese. They are polished without being over-extracted or over-oaked. They are clean and pure but also produced in the most sustainable manner possible. To me, they’re a win-win.
Since releasing their first La Serena wines in 1988, twin brothers Andrea and Marcello Mantengoli have farmed organically with an eye toward official certification, and today’s wine has that coveted “Made from Organic Grapes” certification on its label. The La Serena estate, which has been in the Mantengoli family since 1933, is situated on the east side of the Montalcino hill, not far from Biondi-Santi and at an altitude of about 400 meters. They’ve grown their vineyard holdings to nine hectares, all of them planted to Sangiovese for either Rosso or Brunello di Montalcino, and their cellars, designed by Marcello, incorporate a wide assortment of “eco-friendly” features, including solar panels used for water heating and a geothermal system of heating and cooling the buildings. Consulting enologist Paolo Caciorgna lends his expertise in the cellar.
This Riserva, sourced from the estate’s oldest vines (from a parcel that surround the winery). is both fermented and aged in large, conical wood vats (tini) of 70 hectoliter capacity. The aging period in wood lasts a minimum of 36 months, followed by further refinement in bottle before release. By law, a Brunello di Montalcino Riserva cannot be released until January 1st of the sixth year following the harvest year (in this case, 2021).
This 2015 is already delicious (especially if you track it over several days rather than downing it in one sitting), but there’s a long life still ahead of it. In the glass, it’s a concentrated ruby/garnet extending to the rim, with explosive aromas of black cherry, red and black plums, blood orange peel, leather, cedar, bay leaf, warm spices, espresso grounds, and underbrush. Medium-plus in body and firmly—but not aggressively—tannic, this is a relatively plush, ripe style of Sangiovese that nevertheless retains a clear varietal identity. There’s enough freshness and structure here for a 10- to 20-year run, but that shouldn’t stop you from decanting a bottle about 60 minutes before serving at 60 degrees in large Bordeaux stems. My first inclination is to visit the meat counter when I know there’s a wine like this back at home—grilled Porterhouse and some white beans drizzled with oil are the recipe for success. The “wow” factor is strong with this one. Don’t miss it!
