Description
Lussier, “Côte de Boont” Pinot Noir
Because just five barrels were produced, last year’s debut of Lussier’s “Côte de Boont” was supposed to be a quiet and discreet affair, but it instead became a deafening statement piece that sold out in a frenzy. At the time, it was the most excited we’d been about a new domestic Pinot Noir producer in years, a declaration that stands to this day. So, you can imagine our delight when Lussier offered us access to their freshly bottled sophomore release at the special and dramatically undervalued price of $39 yet again.
One taste of this gorgeously perfumed, humming-with-energy Anderson Valley Pinot proves Lussier is not some one-hit wonder. These wines are the genuine article, and they’re highly limited. Case in point, this year’s production was nearly doubled, and the grand total was a “staggering” nine barrels of wine. But let’s temporarily set aside their drop-in-the-bucket production and focus on everything else: Sourced from two organic vineyards in the isolated and elevated woods of Northern California, this is a tension-filled, breathtakingly elegant whole-cluster Pinot Noir that enjoyed a gentle evolution in used French barrels. It is a refreshingly beautiful wine and an affordable opportunity for anyone who intends to savor the world’s most exquisite and aromatic Pinot Noirs. Enjoy it while you can!
From combat tours in the sweltering Middle East to touring cool-climate vineyards in Anderson Valley, it’s safe to say GW Lussier had a drastic career change in 2015. Having left the military and returned to California, his first foray into wine was an internship with Palhmeyer, which then led to a gig with world-famous Williams Selyem. And what do you do after working with some of the world’s greatest Pinot Noirs? Try your own hand, of course! So, Lussier looked north to Mendocino, specifically high elevation sites in Anderson Valley, and released his first eponymous label in 2020. Today’s offer, his second-ever release, is just as exceptional, if not more. In fact, I think this one will enjoy a longer, more dynamic evolution as the years go by.
“Côte de Boont” hails from a couple of cool, breezy, organically farmed vineyards known as “Roma” and “Golden Fleece.” Roma sits on a ridge perched nearly 2,000 feet above sea level and Golden Fleece is about 1,000 feet high with steep inclines that strictly require 100% manual work. In the cellar, Lussier intervenes as little as possible: The hand-harvested fruit for today’s 2020 fermented on native yeasts with 40% of its whole clusters intact, and aged for 11 months nine used French barrels. The name “Côte de Boont” comes from a cryptic jargon/language endemic to the citizens of Boonville, California, a small town in the heart of Anderson Valley.
If consuming this young Pinot Noir in the short term, I suggest no less than 60 minutes in a decanter before serving at 60 degrees in bulbous Burgundy stems. Once complete, give it a few swirls and enjoy the subtle aromas of crunchy red plum, orange zest, cranberry, green strawberry, and redcurrant aromas blossoming on a structured, acid-driven bed of grape stem, soft baking spices, forest floor, black tea, and crushed rock. The energetic, medium-bodied palate bursts with vivid red-fruited layers that bounce into a savory, herbal-tinged finish. Although it certainly is an impressive accomplishment as currently constructed, the insider tip here is to buy several and stow the majority of them in a dark, cool corner for another 2-3 years. Come 2025, you’ll be glad you waited. Cheers!
