Description
Maison de Montille, Pouilly-Fuissé “En Vergisson”
In the complex patchwork of Burgundian terroir, Pouilly-Fuissé has long remained one of the most underrated appellations for Chardonnay. But when you know which producers to look for, it can be an outstanding, Côte de Beaune-equivalent source of premium white Burgundy. Enter Maison de Montille, the micro-négoce arm of the iconic Domaine de Montille. In the hands of this high-caliber producer, Pouilly-Fuissé transcends its station to rival Premier Cru Chassagne, Puligny, and Meursault—Côte de Beaune’s Holy Trinity of Chardonnay.
Étienne and Alix, the progeny of late patriarch/icon Hubert de Montille, have done an extraordinary job continuing his legacy while jump-starting their own “maison” venture. Whereas Domaine de Montille focuses on earthy, mineral-driven reds from Volnay and Pommard, Maison de Montille sources fruit from top-notch sustainable growers throughout Burgundy, from Mâcon to Chablis. The aim was to produce an exciting range of predominantly white wines to bring balance to the family’s portfolio and offer excellence and value at every price point. Today’s wine does just that and then some: It is a wonderfully elegant, nuanced, and harmoniously textured white Burgundy that will elevate just about any occasion and/or meal.
This Pouilly-Fuissé is sourced from fruit grown on the steepest slopes around the famed, monolithic rock of Vergisson. The clay and limestone soils found there create ideal conditions for this elegant, balanced Pouilly-Fuissé. As with all of de Montille’s vineyard sources, sustainable farming (and longstanding, trusting relationships) are paramount. The siblings are staunch advocates of organic and biodynamic farming—in the 1980s, they convinced Hubert to convert to organic, and to biodynamic in 2005, and have since demanded the same for many of their growers. They have the final say in crop yields, harvest dates, and fruit selection for all of their sources, in accordance with their exceptionally high standards. In the cellar, the focus is on purity of fruit, restrained alcohol, and mineral-driven wines, just as it is at the “Domaine.”
The choice parcels selected for “En Vergisson” are harvested by hand and then fermented and aged in 600-liter casks (never more than 20% new), as well as 228-liter barrels and stainless steel. After one year, the wines were blended and then entirely transferred into stainless steel for an additional five months which helps to preserve freshness and tension. The wine is lightly fined and filtered before bottling. The minimalist methods favored by the de Montilles produce a classic, traditional expression of Burgundy that prioritizes balance and elegance over extraction and power, and highlights the aromatic purity of the fruit and the expression of Pouilly-Fuissé terroir.
This mid-weight Chardonnay is pretty and sophisticated, with enticing aromas of ripe white and yellow fruit laced with petrol and wet stone. Supple and succulent on the round, silky palate, there are resounding, vibrant flavors of ripe yellow peaches and nectarines, infused with an exotic note of yellow apple, the tart crunch of green pear, a hint of delicate brown spice, and a bouquet of fragrant white blossoms. Already beautiful, this can certainly be enjoyed now, although I suspect a few more years of bottle age will add some really nice depth and flesh. Served at 50-55 degrees in Burgundy stems, this versatile Pouilly-Fuissé will pair beautifully with nearly any cuisine that’s on the lighter side—you certainly can’t go wrong with an ultra-classic roast chicken recipe.
