Description
Marqués de Murrieta, Ygay “Etiqueta Blanca” Rioja
That 1988 Coto Mayor from two weeks ago? Sold out forever, in just a few hours. But we planned for that outcome, and have been quietly mapping out a tremendous lineup of perfectly stored Rioja antiques over the last several months. Now we’re onto a precious gem that’s its senior by 15 years, crafted by a fabled name that escapes no connoisseur: Marqués de Murrieta’s Ygay.
If you can believe it, this tiny parcel of 1973 “Etiqueta Blanca” Rioja was stored in a dark, stock-still European cellar for five decades, and it still costs less than most current-release Second Growth Bordeaux! When it comes to ubiquitous respect and consistently remarkable quality, Ygay exists at the top of the hierarchy with only a few other legends, so if you’re lucky/quick enough to acquire one of the 59 available bottles on offer, take a moment to remember just how special and rare this experience is. All purchases are limited to three bottles. And please, carefully read the service and tasting notes at the end of this article prior to opening!
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BONUS: We also have 19 bottles of Ygay’s top-vintage 1982 “Etiqueta Blanca” available here.
Founded in 1852 by legendary Luciano de Murrieta, Marqués de Murrieta’s Ygay is one of Rioja’s timeless benchmarks, like Gaja is to Piedmont and Chave is to Northern Rhône. Furthermore, Ygay is currently the longest, continuously produced “brand” in Rioja so anyone remotely interested in fine wine should have committed them to memory long ago. Ygay’s 1973 “Etiqueta Blanca,” which was a fantasy name for their Crianza-designated Rioja, is a blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha with a splash of Mazuelo. The fruit fermented in vats before being transferred into used American oak barrels of 225 liters. Following two years of maturation, the wine was bottled and allowed to rest for another 12 months before its first commercial release.
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This parcel, however, kept slumbering much longer before it was purchased by a private cellar. It spent the entirety of its life stored to perfection, finally leaving Spain for the first time at the end of 2022. It arrived in our warehouse during the first week of January 2023. While the history, terroir, and cellar work of wine will always be integral to each offer on SommSelect, we can’t help but focus on the extreme longevity and flawless provenance of today\’s 1973 treasure. It aged for decades without moving or seeing the sun, resulting in an exceptionally mature Rioja full of vigor, lift, and nuance that few wines/producers can ever achieve.
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In spite of the bullet-proof provenance and high quality of Ygay, we couldn’t help ourselves from opening a bottle when our small parcel arrived. I’m glad we did: While a gorgeous snapshot of Rioja’s bygone era, it’s a delicate wine that needs proper service and instruction. After receiving your bottle, allow it to rest upright in a cool, dark area for 1-2 weeks prior to opening. During that time, buy or borrow a Durand (an ah-so will suffice) if you don’t already own one. On the night of service, carefully remove the foil and use the Durand to extract the cork slowly and carefully. Our capsule appeared to be lead-based, and our cork was friable and fully soaked, so I suggest wiping the top of the bottle and the inner neck with a clean cloth. If there’s a bit of cork particulate floating at the top, feel free to pour the wine through a fine mesh strainer/filter before serving in Bordeaux stems around 60 degrees. I recommend allowing it to breathe in your glass for several minutes and consuming your bottle within two hours. Be mindful of the sediment that’s present in the final few ounces.
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It’s a bit of work, but the payoff is glorious. This is a seductively elegant and savory Rioja with delicate aromas of dried red plum, dried cherry, vintage leather, dried leaves, exotic spice, curry, sweet and sour sauce, and that scent you get when prying open an old leatherbound book. Although it pours a dusty, hazy brick-orange with slight tawny hues and smells mature, the palate will surprise you: It’s soft and lively with still-present acidity and edgeless tannins. Enjoy this 50-year-old gem within the next three years.
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