Description
Philippe Foreau – Domaine du Clos Naudin, Vouvray Demi-Sec
We have a magnificent opportunity today for serious collectors and serious students of wine. This is not a “drink now” wine, and it’s not a bottle to throw in the fridge before a simple Tuesday night dinner. No, this is an extremely serious, museum-quality keepsake, and a wine built to evolve and increase in value in the decades to come.
There is little argument that in the appellation of Vouvray, two domaines loom above all others: Domaine Huet and the man behind today’s masterpiece, Philippe Foreau. As a SommSelect subscriber, you are likely already aware of the insane aging capability and quality behind every label of Foreau Demi-Sec (in past vintages, we’ve been fortunate to split Napa’s allocation with The French Laundry). It is one of the estate’s most limited wines, only produced in outstanding vintages. For me, it is a region-defining classic that belongs in the pantheon of the world’s greatest age-worthy whites alongside Egon Müller Riesling and d’Yquem Sauternes. It is truly a “best in class” Demi-Sec, and by the sounds of it, it may also be a best-in-lifetime vintage: Foreau has said in no uncertain terms that 2015 is the finest vintage of his multi-decade career. So, again, if you’re looking for an instantly gratifying bargain, this is probably not the bottle. But, if you wish to possess your own piece of history and the grandeur of Foreau’s stunning 2015, this is a truly special wine to add to any well-curated cellar collection.
Philippe Foreau’s property, the Domaine du Clos Naudin, is located in the northeast corner of Vouvray. The property comprises two single vineyards, Les Perruches and Les Ruettes, with vine age reaching upward to almost a century. These parcels are planted entirely to Chenin Blanc. It is perhaps most important to mention that this is an extremely small property; its extremely limited production, combined with near-limitless global demand for the estate’s wines, creates a perennial challenge for anyone wishing to acquire any significant volume. Still, the family refuses to increase in size. So, each vintage they quietly produce a few thousand cases of wine—a fraction of which comes into the US where it is eagerly absorbed by the demand of sommeliers and collectors. It’s especially important to reiterate that Foreau does not produce a Demi-Sec (“off-dry”) every year. This wine is only released in vintages wherein a stellar, tightrope balance between sweetness and acidity can be harnessed in the bottle. In 2015, ripeness levels were extraordinary, resulting in a Demi-Sec that clocked in at 27 grams of sugar per liter after fermentation. Those privy to the magical balancing act of sugar and acid will instantly understand that this does not read sweet but rather ripe, rich, and surprisingly dry.
All wines from the Foreau domaine follow the same essential protocol: It all starts with organic farming in the vines, multiple harvests by hand, and transportation to the cellar in small baskets. Wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks then aged in ancient, neutral French oak barriques. There is no addition of sugar and unlike many producers, Foreau never chaptalizes to achieve the Demi-Sec level and malo-lactic fermentations are never permitted to occur. The result of this process is an extremely balanced, pure, and transparent expression of what many consider Vouvray’s grandest terroir.
Philippe Foreau’s 2015 Vouvray Demi-Sec is a symphony in the glass. From the electrifying acidity and treble notes of white peach, baked yellow apple, bruised pear, lemon curd, and mango peel to the wild ginger, chamomile, honeysuckle, and lanolin filling out the midrange, all the way down to the thunderous limestone minerality that serves as the foundation for every Foreau wine. Remember: the acidity and mineral structure roars here, carrying the sweetness effortlessly—it is truly a vintage for the record books. Still, let me be clear: this is only a sneak preview of what is yet to come, and it would be tantamount to infanticide if all bottles of this 2015 were uncorked in the near future. So, if you must enjoy today, please decant overnight and serve in large Burgundy stems at 50-55 degrees. In its youth, this is a wine that demands some protein and richness to accommodate its enormous power, acidity, and ripeness. I suggest taking a cue from The French Laundry and serving with seared Foie Gras. But again, I cannot stress enough that this is a wine built for years of evolution in your cellar. If you can manage the patience and discipline for at least 5 years (and as long as 2+ decades), you will be rewarded with one of the wine world’s most profound white wine experiences and a sizable return on your initially modest financial investment. Enjoy!
