Description
Pichler-Krutzler, Loiben Riesling
[Once per month, fine-dining pro and Master Sommelier Vincent Morrow makes a guest appearance on SommSelect to feature one of his favorite wines, and today it’s another sizzling Austrian gem. Vincent has worked at iconic restaurants across the spectrum—you’ll currently find him at Press in the Napa Valley—so when he speaks, we listen!]
I was extremely fortunate to learn about Pichler-Krutzler during my tenure at Gary Danko and Benu, working under Master Sommeliers Jeremiah Moorehouse and Yoon Ha, respectively. Both the Grüner Veltliners and Rieslings were sacred “joker” cards that I saved for service, a guaranteed win for the value and sheer versatility they presented at the table with a wide range of cuisines. The Rieslings resonated with guests of all tastes, from wine novices to professionals alike, and today they shine as a benchmark for world-class white wine.
Although founded only as recently as 2007, don’t let the relative youth of the label fool you—this husband & wife team comes from a long lineage of winemaking. The “Pichler” in the name derives from Elisabeth Pichler, the fifth generation of legendary Weingut F.X. Pichler, a producer that SommSelect has eagerly highlighted in the past. But right now, my attention is locked in on the newcomers Pichler-Krutzler. Their 2018 Loiben Riesling is so breathtakingly pure and crisp, full of razor-sharp minerality and electrifying energy. Once you take that first sip, you’ll immediately understand why these wines have always stolen the show during tableside service. Truly, when Pichler-Krutzler is on the wine list, my job is exponentially easier!
Elisabeth Pichler grew up with Wachau winemaking in her DNA, alongside her brother, Lucas. The “Krutzler” comes from Elisabeth’s husband, Erich Krutzler, whose own family has propelled themselves to the top tier of red winemaking in Austria with the Blaufränkisch grape. Their partnership feels too good to be true, but the truth is in today’s wine. This offer is for the 2018 “Loiben” Riesling, sourced from some of the world’s greatest Riesling vineyards in the Loiben village, neighboring Wachau legends such as Emmerich Knoll and Tegernseerhof. These vineyards enjoy sun-drenched, south-facing slopes following a crucial bend on the Danube River. The river proximity is vital in this part of the world, protecting nearby vineyards from harsh nighttime temperatures and reflecting sunlight to vines during the day. These incredibly steep slopes along the Danube consist primarily of gneiss soil, naturally inhibiting yields of grapevines. The results are wines of exceptional depth with layers of minerality and endless acidity.
The 2018 Loiben Riesling is bottled electricity, striking just in time for spring. It is visually stunning, reflecting a brilliant pale straw core in the glass tracing outward to a green rim. The nose entices with a mix of stone fruit, delicate white flowers, and honey. On the palate, precise acidity marks every sip on the palate like an Indy car tucking cleanly into each turn. The racy mouthfeel is accented with an undertone of subtlety and nuance; key lime panna cotta & fresh lemongrass rounded out by a signature savory herbal finish. If I had one word to sum up the Pichler-Krutzler experience, it would be exhilarating. Open this beauty 10-15 minutes prior to drinking and serve at 45 degrees Fahrenheit in your favorite all-purpose stem (Zalto All-Purpose is my go-to). Pair this alongside sunny days and citrus-cured halibut with jalapeño and grapefruit wedges. Lastly, be sure to buy a full case: half for the cellar (this is a wine easily built for 3-5 more years of aging), and the other half for continuous enjoyment throughout 2021. With Pichler-Krutzler, Spring is officially here!
