Description
Recaredo, Corpinnat “Intens Rosat” Brut Nature
If Raventós, highlighted in this morning’s offer, is the restless pioneer of Penedès sparkling wine, Recaredo is the region’s grand doyen. Here is an estate that, without exaggeration, may just have the most exacting standards of any sparkling wine house on the planet. Recaredo’s vines are farmed biodynamically and harvested entirely by hand, and every single wine they produce is vintage-dated, hand-riddled, and manually disgorged without dosage. Their 2014 “Intens Rosat” represents the culmination, the truest expression, of the house’s fierce ethos.
A singularly vinous rosé with sun-drenched Mediterranean fruit and visceral freshness, it matured for 67 months sur lie before enjoying two more years in bottle post-disgorgement. The meticulous touch in the vineyard and the commitment to family tradition call to mind the grandest biodynamic farmers of Champagne, specifically Georges Laval, whose own $150 rosé is not all dissimilar to that of Recaredo! But of course, this is Spain we’re talking about so this profound bottling costs far, far less. For those curious if Spanish sparklers can compete with tête de cuvée luxury, there is no more definitive proof—grab a bottle or six and you too will be convinced!
The Penedès sparkling wine scene is in flux right now, as evidenced by the fact that Recaredo has left the Cava DO but also don’t label their wines Conca del Riu Anoia like Raventós does. Instead, Recaredo spearheaded a group of elite, now-former Cava producers when forming the Corpinnat designation just three years ago. Corpinnat, too, must be aged a minimum of 18 months, but there’s slightly more leeway for varieties used, and Corpinnat encompasses a slightly larger zone than Conca del Riu Anoia. Which appellation will eventually be the one to take gold is hard to know, but there’s no denying that both “designations” stand at the top of Spain’s sparkling wine tier. Recaredo’s desire to distance themselves from cheap supermarket Cava is well-founded; these are simply some of the most singular wines in the country.
Josep Mata Capellades founded Cavas Recaredo in 1924. His sons still run the estate, but youngster Ton Mata is set to take over in a few years. Located just down the street from Raventos in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, Josep built the cellars by hand himself and they’re still in use today. If there’s a Corpinnat producer who stands equal to the top grower Champagne producers in refinement, attention to detail, and sheer patience, it’s Recaredo. The family insists on bottling only bone-dry wines, many of which ferment in oak, and extend their aging regimen far beyond the appellation requirements. Furthermore, all wines are aged under cork—an exceedingly rare practice, even at top Champagne addresses—and every single bottle is disgorged by hand. There’s a full-bore weight and intensity to Recaredo’s wines, and that comes to light in their “Intens Rosat,” a mind-bendingly complex and deeply brooding rosé made from Monastrell (Mourvèdre) and Grenache.
The 2014 “Intens Rosat” pours a luminous dark red core thanks to six hours of skin contact and the “Southern Rhône” grapes at play. One sniff and you know this is no simple rosé for chugging; instead, it erupts with heady aromas of pomegranate, fresh raspberry, Morello cherry, blood orange, cranberry, lavender, dried medicinal herbs, bready yeast, menthol, and gamey spice. The palate is full, ripe, and caressing, the mousse persistent yet soft. Red plums, rose petals, and salty minerality continue on the palate. This is sumptuous and rich stuff, that rare sparkling wine you can easily serve alongside any chicken or pork main course. Whether you’re a believer in Corpinnat or are yet to be converted, this is a totally unique experience that’ll have you reaching for Spain the next time you crave top-tier bubbles. Enjoy now and over the next five years.
